Curry Paste
A rich, authentic Parsi-style curry paste from the turn of the 20th century, combining roasted aromatics, fresh coconut milk, and a complex blend of spices. This shelf-stable concentrate balances the heat of Goan chilies with the tang of tamarind and vinegar, creating a deep, savory base for meat or vegetable curries. The meticulous process of frying onions and extracting pure coconut milk results in a luxurious texture and intense flavor profile.
Ingredients
- 4 cups Coriander seeds (Originally '2 Tipri'. Estimated volume based on historical context.)
- 3 cups Roasted split chickpeas (Dalia) (Originally '1 1/2 Tipri'.)
- 2 cups Poppy seeds (Khus Khus) (Originally '1 Tipri'.)
- 1 cup Jeerasal rice (Originally '1/2 Tipri'.)
- 12 whole Large coconuts (Fresh, grated.)
- 6 pounds Ghee (Originally '6 Sher'. Used for frying and preserving.)
- 4 pounds Onions (Originally '4 Sher'.)
- 1/2 pound Tamarind (Originally '1/2 Sher'. Seeds removed.)
- 1/4 pound Fresh ginger (Originally '1/4 Sher'.)
- 1/4 pound Jaggery (Originally '1/4 Sher'.)
- 5 tablespoons Salt (Originally '5 Tola'. Adjust to taste.)
- 5 tablespoons Turmeric root (or powder) (Originally '5 Tola'.)
- 2 ounces Dried Goan chilies (Originally '1 Navtank'.)
- 2 ounces Dried garlic (Originally '1 Navtank'.)
- 2 ounces Whole cumin seeds (Originally '1 Navtank'.)
- 3 tablespoons Cardamom (Originally '3 Tola'.)
- 3 tablespoons Nutmeg (Originally '3 Tola'.)
- 3 tablespoons Cinnamon (Originally '3 Tola'.)
- 3 tablespoons Mustard seeds (Originally '3 Tola'.)
- 3 tablespoons Fenugreek seeds (Originally '3 Tola'.)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Whole black peppercorns (Originally '1 1/2 Tola'.)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Cloves (Originally '1 1/2 Tola'.)
- 1 1/2 tablespoons Star anise (Originally '1 1/2 Tola'.)
- 2 cups Strong vinegar (Originally '1 Pint'.)
Instructions
- 1One day before making the paste, prepare all ingredients. Peel and crush the ginger and garlic. Peel the onions and slice them very finely (like vermicelli).
- 2In a tin-lined vessel (or heavy pot), heat the ghee over a slow fire. Add the sliced onions and fry, stirring frequently, until they turn a uniform brown color. Just before they are fully done, add the crushed ginger and garlic. Once the mixture releases a fragrant aroma and the onions are crisp and pale red, immediately remove from heat. Remove the onions with a perforated spoon, draining as much ghee as possible back into the pot. Spread the onions on large plates to cool. Once crisp, crush them by hand into a fine powder.
- 3Grate the white part of all the coconuts and place in a large bowl. Strain the vinegar and mix it into the grated coconut. Place small batches of this mixture into a strong cloth and squeeze tightly to extract all the milk without adding any water. Discard the dry coconut residue.
- 4Clean the tamarind and mix it into the extracted coconut milk. Cover and let it soak for one hour. Afterward, rub the tamarind in the liquid to release the pulp, then strain through the cloth to remove fibers and seeds. Clean the jaggery and mix it, along with the salt, into this liquid. Cover and set aside.
- 5Grind the cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, and star anise into a very fine powder. Separately, roast the remaining dry ingredients (coriander, dalia, poppy seeds, rice, chilies, cumin, mustard seeds, fenugreek, pepper) on a griddle until pale red and crisp. Grind these roasted spices. Combine all ground spices and grind them together on a clean, dry stone slab (or in a powerful grinder) without water until extremely fine, like soot.
- 6Mix the crushed fried onions into the fine spice powder and grind again briefly to combine. Transfer to a large vessel. Add the coconut-tamarind liquid mixture. Pour in the remaining ghee left over from frying the onions. Mix vigorously with your hand to ensure everything is thoroughly combined into a uniform paste. Fill into wide-mouthed, completely dry bottles, leaving some space at the top so the cork doesn't touch the paste. Cork tightly and seal with wax.
- 7To make curry: Wash 1 lb of tender meat or half a chicken. Place in a pot with cold water and a little salt; cover and boil. When slightly tender, add 1 lb of peeled, halved potatoes. Cook until done. Remove meat and potatoes, leaving about 3/4 cup of soup (stock) in the pot. Mix a small amount of the prepared Curry Paste into the soup first (to prevent lumps), then add more paste to reach desired thickness. Taste and add salt if needed. Return the meat and potatoes to the pot and simmer over a slow fire. Once it boils and the spices settle, stir well. If too thick, add a little water and boil again. Do not cover after the final boil. When the ghee begins to separate, add a little strong vinegar to taste. Remove from heat when the ghee has fully separated.