Bàdingān Tùrshussu

Bàdingān Tùrshussu

A traditional Ottoman pickled aubergine recipe from 1864, in which split egg-plants are stuffed with chopped parsley, celery, and halved garlic cloves, tied with celery stalks, and preserved in wine vinegar for about three weeks. The result is a tangy, garlicky pickle with deep, complex flavour.

Ingredients

  • 0 as many as required egg-plants (aubergines) (Choose firm, small-to-medium aubergines of roughly equal size for even pickling. The stalks will be removed in the first step.)
  • 0 some fresh parsley (A generous handful per batch is typical; flat-leaf parsley works well.)
  • 0 some celery (leaves and inner stalks, for the stuffing) (Use the leafy inner stalks for chopping into the stuffing mixture.)
  • 24 cloves (one or two dozen) garlic cloves (Each clove is cut in two lengthways. Use one dozen for a milder pickle, two dozen for a stronger garlic flavour.)
  • 0 enough to cover wine vinegar (You will need enough to completely submerge all the stuffed aubergines in your jar. White or red wine vinegar both work.)
  • 0 one per aubergine celery stalks (for tying) (Use the longer, outer celery stalks. They act as natural string to hold the stuffed aubergines closed. Soak them briefly in hot water to make them more pliable before tying.)

Instructions

  1. 1Wash the aubergines thoroughly. Using a sharp knife, cut off and discard the stalks from each aubergine. Now make 3 or 4 deep lengthways cuts into each aubergine, starting from the top (stalk end) and cutting downward, but stopping about 1–2 cm from the bottom so the aubergine stays in one piece — like a fan or a book with multiple pages. The cuts should go almost all the way through but keep the base intact. This creates pockets for the stuffing.
  2. 2Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Working in batches if needed, submerge the split aubergines in the boiling water for 2–3 minutes — just long enough to soften them slightly and make them pliable. This is called scalding. Do not boil them fully; they should still hold their shape. Remove them carefully with tongs or a slotted spoon and set aside.
  3. 3Stack the scalded aubergines on top of one another in a colander, large bowl, or wicker basket. Lay a flat chopping board or large plate directly on top of the pile. Place a heavy weight on top of the board — a large pot filled with water, or a heavy cast-iron pan works well as a modern substitute for an iron weight. Leave them to press for 8 to 10 hours (overnight is ideal). During this time, bitter dark liquid will drain out. After pressing, discard the drained liquid.
  4. 4While the aubergines are pressing (or just before you are ready to stuff them), prepare the stuffing. Finely chop the parsley and the celery (leaves and inner tender stalks). Peel the garlic cloves and slice each one in half lengthways. Combine the chopped parsley, chopped celery, and halved garlic cloves together in a bowl and mix well. This herb and garlic mixture is your stuffing.
  5. 5Take the long outer celery stalks and soak them in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes to make them flexible and easier to tie without snapping. Then, take one pressed aubergine and gently open its cuts. Push a generous amount of the parsley, celery, and garlic stuffing between each slice/cut, packing it in firmly. Once stuffed, wrap one softened celery stalk around the outside of the whole aubergine and tie it in a knot or bow, as you would tie a parcel with string. This holds the stuffing inside. Repeat with all remaining aubergines.
  6. 6Use a large, clean glass jar or a stone crock with a wide mouth — ensure it has been washed thoroughly. Pack the stuffed and tied aubergines snugly into the jar, layering them one on top of the other. Pack them as tightly as you comfortably can without bursting the celery ties, as this will help keep them submerged in the vinegar later.
  7. 7Pour wine vinegar over the packed aubergines until they are completely submerged — every part must be covered. Cut a piece of clean food-safe plastic wrap, parchment paper, or use a small flat plate or clean piece of wood that fits inside the mouth of the jar. Place it directly on top of the aubergines and then set a weight on top (a smaller jar filled with water works well) to keep everything pressed down below the surface of the vinegar. This is important to prevent spoilage.
  8. 8Cover the jar loosely with a lid, cloth, or plastic wrap (do not seal it completely airtight at first, as some fermentation may occur). Store the jar in a cool, dark place — a pantry, cellar, or cool cupboard is ideal. Leave undisturbed for approximately three weeks. After three weeks, the aubergines should be fully pickled, deeply flavoured, and ready to eat. Once opened, keep refrigerated and ensure the aubergines remain submerged in vinegar between servings.

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