Mèdkūnè
A hearty Ottoman stew of layered mutton and aubergine, simmered in broth with lemon juice and finished with a dusting of cinnamon. Simple and fragrant, this dish is a classic example of Ottoman home cooking from the 1864 Turkish Cookery Book.
Ingredients
- 5 medium (4–5) aubergines (egg-plants) (Choose firm, medium-sized aubergines. Known historically as egg-plants.)
- 1 large pot, enough to submerge slices salt water (Use enough water to submerge the aubergine slices with a generous pinch of salt stirred in.)
- 2.5 pounds (2–3 lbs / approx. 1–1.4 kg) mutton (Bone-in or boneless shoulder or leg work well. Cut into walnut-sized pieces, roughly 4 cm chunks.)
- 2 medium (1–2), finely chopped onions (Chop as finely as possible so they blend into the meat during rubbing.)
- 1 teaspoon (a little) salt (Used to season the meat and onion mixture. Adjust to taste.)
- 500 ml (approximately 2 cups), or enough to just cover mutton or beef broth (Use a good-quality stock. Mutton broth is most traditional; beef broth is the suggested alternative.)
- 3 small lemons (juice of 2–3) lemon juice (Freshly squeezed. Remove any seeds before adding to the pot.)
- 0.5 teaspoon (a little) ground cinnamon (Used as a finishing garnish sprinkled over the dish just before serving.)
Instructions
- 1Using a vegetable peeler or a small sharp knife, peel the skin from 4 to 5 aubergines. Work from top to bottom in long strokes, rotating the aubergine as you go until all the skin is removed.
- 2Cut the peeled aubergines into round slices approximately three-quarters of an inch (about 2 cm) thick. Try to keep the slices even so they cook at the same rate.
- 3Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil over high heat. Add the aubergine slices and cook for about 3 to 4 minutes — just long enough to soften them slightly on the outside but not cook them through. They should still hold their shape. This is called 'partly scalding'. Drain them carefully and set aside.
- 4Cut 2 to 3 pounds (roughly 1 to 1.4 kg) of mutton into pieces approximately the size of walnuts — about 4 cm (1.5 inches) chunks. Use a sturdy knife and a solid chopping board. If your butcher hasn't already done this, ask them to cut it for you to save time.
- 5Place the mutton pieces in a large bowl. Add the finely chopped onions and a little salt (about 1 teaspoon). Using clean hands, rub the onions and salt firmly into the meat for a minute or two, ensuring everything is well combined and the onion begins to release its moisture into the meat.
- 6Take a wide, heavy-based stewpan or casserole dish with a lid. Begin layering: place some of the mutton pieces at the bottom, then lay some aubergine slices on top. Repeat these layers — mutton, then aubergine — until all the meat and aubergine has been used up. Try to keep the layers roughly even.
- 7Pour enough mutton or beef broth over the layered ingredients to just cover them — approximately 500 ml (2 cups), though you may need slightly more depending on the size of your pan. Squeeze the juice of 2 to 3 small lemons over the top, removing any seeds. The broth and lemon together will form the cooking liquid that becomes the gravy.
- 8Place the stewpan on the hob over medium heat. Once you see the liquid beginning to bubble, reduce the heat to low and put the lid firmly on the pan. Let the stew simmer gently — do not boil vigorously — for approximately 1 hour, or until the mutton is tender and the liquid has reduced and thickened into a flavourful gravy at the bottom of the pan. Check occasionally to ensure it hasn't dried out; add a splash more broth if needed.
- 9Carefully transfer the stew to a serving dish, keeping the layers as intact as possible. Sprinkle a little ground cinnamon lightly over the top and serve immediately. The cinnamon is a finishing touch — it should be fragrant rather than overpowering, so use a light hand.