Lamb Pilàw with Liver and Heart

Lamb Pilàw with Liver and Heart

A richly flavoured Ottoman-style pilaf featuring tender braised lamb pieces arranged over a mound of fluffy rice cooked with chopped liver, heart, pistachios, and currants. A striking and satisfying dish that showcases the elegant rice cookery traditions of 19th-century Turkish cuisine.

Ingredients

  • 0 as needed lamb (cut into pieces the size of kidneys) (Ask your butcher to cut lamb into roughly golf-ball-sized chunks. Shoulder or leg works well.)
  • 0 as needed curd (plain yoghurt or strained yoghurt) (Use enough to coat each piece of lamb. Plain full-fat yoghurt is the closest modern equivalent to curd.)
  • 0 as needed fresh butter (Used for frying the lamb pieces. Unsalted butter is best.)
  • 2.5 medium onions onions, sliced (The recipe specifies two or three; use two to three medium onions, sliced into thin half-rings.)
  • 0 as needed fresh butter (Used for frying the sliced onions separately.)
  • 0 to taste salt (Season the lamb and onion mixture generously but to your preference.)
  • 0 to taste black pepper (Freshly ground black pepper is ideal.)
  • 0 sufficient to cover water (hot or cold) (Add enough to just cover the lamb pieces in the stewpan. Hot water will bring it to a simmer faster.)
  • 1 whole liver lamb liver (The liver of one lamb. Trim any visible sinew or membrane before chopping.)
  • 1 whole heart lamb heart (The heart of one lamb. Trim any fat or tough vessels before chopping.)
  • 0 as needed fresh butter (Used for frying the chopped liver and heart mixture.)
  • 0 a little salt (A small pinch to season the liver and heart while frying.)
  • 1 handful pistachios, skinned (Blanched or pre-skinned pistachios. To skin them yourself, briefly blanch in boiling water, drain, and rub off the skins.)
  • 1 tablespoon currants (Dried currants (the small dark variety). Soak in warm water for a few minutes if very dry.)
  • 0 a little mixed spice (A small amount of mixed spice — a pre-blended warm spice mix typical of the era.)
  • 2 pints (approximately 1.1 litres) broth (The original references 'Broth No. 2'. Use a good quality lamb or beef stock as the closest modern equivalent.)
  • 1 pound (approximately 450g) rice, well washed (Wash the rice thoroughly under cold running water until the water runs clear, to remove excess starch.)

Instructions

  1. 1Take your lamb pieces (roughly kidney- or golf-ball-sized chunks) and dip each piece into curd (plain full-fat yoghurt), making sure each piece is evenly coated. This coating helps the lamb brown beautifully and adds a subtle tang.
  2. 2Melt a generous knob of fresh butter in a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Once the butter is foaming, add the curd-coated lamb pieces in a single layer (work in batches if needed to avoid crowding). Fry, turning occasionally, until each piece is a deep golden brown on all sides. This browning creates flavour, so take your time — do not rush this step.
  3. 3In the same pan or a separate pan, melt another knob of fresh butter over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and fry gently, stirring occasionally, until they are soft and golden. This can be done while the lamb is browning if you have a second pan available.
  4. 4Transfer the browned lamb pieces into a large stewpan or deep saucepan. Add the fried onions, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over enough hot or cold water to just cover the meat. Place the pot over a low to medium heat (the original calls for a charcoal fire — a low gas or electric burner is ideal). Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to low. Let the lamb simmer gently, uncovered or partially covered, until most of the liquid has reduced and you are left with a thick, rich gravy at the bottom of the pan. This will take approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour.
  5. 5While the lamb is simmering, prepare the offal. Trim any tough membranes or vessels from the lamb liver and heart, then chop them together into rough, small pieces — aim for a coarse mince or small dice. This can be done on a chopping board with a sharp knife.
  6. 6Melt a knob of fresh butter in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the chopped liver and heart with a little salt. Fry, stirring frequently, until the mixture is cooked through and nicely browned — the pieces should be firm and no longer pink inside. Do not overcook or they will become tough.
  7. 7Once the liver and heart mixture is nicely cooked, add the skinned pistachios, the tablespoon of currants, and a little mixed spice to the pan. Stir everything together with a wooden spoon for approximately five minutes over medium heat, so the flavours meld together.
  8. 8Transfer the liver and heart mixture from the frying pan into a large saucepan. Add some of the thick gravy from the braised lamb (ladle in a few spoonfuls — enough to add richness), then pour in the two pints (approximately 1.1 litres) of broth. Stir to combine. Place the saucepan over medium heat and put the lid on.
  9. 9When the liquid in the saucepan is boiling, add the pound (approximately 450g) of well-washed rice. Stir once with a wooden spoon to distribute the rice evenly. Put the lid back on. Reduce the heat to medium-low and let the rice cook until each grain is just soft but still separate — not mushy. Check periodically and stir gently once or twice to ensure nothing sticks to the bottom.
  10. 10Once the rice has absorbed most of the liquid and each grain is just soft, remove the saucepan from the heat. Take a clean, wet kitchen cloth and wrap it tightly around the lid of the saucepan (the cloth absorbs excess steam and prevents condensation dripping back onto the rice). Place the cloth-wrapped lid back on the saucepan. Move the pot to the lowest heat possible — or simply leave it to one side of the stove or on a heat diffuser — and let it rest and steam for twenty minutes. During this time the grains will swell, become fully separated, and all remaining moisture will be absorbed.
  11. 11To serve, mound the rice pilaf onto a large serving platter in the shape of a dome — use a large spoon or spatula to pile it high in the centre. Then arrange the braised lamb pieces decoratively over and around the dome of rice. Serve immediately while hot.
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