Làmūnyà Kāymàghi
A delicate Ottoman-era fruit cream dessert made by cooking strawberries or raspberries into a thick purée, setting it with isinglass (gelatin), and folding through lightly perfumed whipped cream. The result is an elegantly moulded, cool and creamy confection scented with rose or orange-flower essence.
Ingredients
- 1 pound (approx. 450 g) strawberries or raspberries (Fresh; stalks removed and washed. Use whichever is in season.)
- 3.5 ounces (approx. 100 g, or 3–4 oz to taste) powdered (icing) sugar (Use 3 oz for a less sweet result or 4 oz for a sweeter one.)
- 2.5 tablespoons (2–3 tbsp) water (Cold tap water is fine.)
- 1.5 ounces (approx. 42 g) melted isinglass (or unflavoured powdered gelatine, dissolved) (Isinglass is a traditional fish-derived setting agent. Modern substitute: use unflavoured powdered gelatine dissolved in a little warm water according to packet instructions for an equivalent setting strength. Follow your gelatine packet for exact quantities to set approximately 1 pint of liquid.)
- 0.5 pint (approx. 285 ml) cooked and sieved fruit purée (from the cooked strawberries/raspberries above) (This is measured out from the purée made in steps 1–3.)
- 1 pint (approx. 570 ml) double/heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks whipped cream (Whip just before combining. Do not over-whip to stiff peaks.)
- 4 drops (a few drops, to taste) essence of rose or orange-flower water (Use either rose essence or orange-flower water. Add cautiously — both are potent.)
Instructions
- 1Remove the stalks from 1 pound (approx. 450 g) of strawberries or raspberries. Place them in a colander and rinse gently under cold running water. Shake off any excess water.
- 2Place the cleaned fruit into a medium saucepan. Add 3–4 ounces (approx. 85–115 g) of powdered (icing) sugar and 2–3 tablespoons of water. Stir gently to combine. Set the pan over a moderate heat — medium on a modern hob. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture has thickened noticeably and most of the liquid has cooked off. This will take roughly 15–20 minutes. The fruit will break down completely. Tip: Reduce heat slightly if the mixture begins to spit.
- 3Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool to room temperature — this will take about 30 minutes. Do not rush this step; adding the gelatine to hot fruit can affect its setting ability. Once the fruit mixture is fully cold, set a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl or basin. Pour the cooked fruit through the sieve, pressing it through with the back of a spoon to extract as much smooth purée as possible. Discard any seeds or pulp left in the sieve. You should have approximately half a pint (285 ml) of smooth purée in the bowl.
- 4Measure out half a pint (approx. 285 ml) of the cooled fruit purée into your bowl. Add 1.5 ounces (approx. 42 g) of melted isinglass — or, if using modern powdered gelatine, dissolve it in a small amount of warm water per packet instructions first, ensuring it is fully dissolved and lump-free before adding. Pour the melted isinglass or dissolved gelatine into the fruit purée. Stir well with a wooden spoon or whisk until thoroughly combined.
- 5Whip 1 pint (approx. 570 ml) of double or heavy cream to soft peaks — the cream should hold a gentle shape when you lift the whisk but not be stiff or grainy. Add the whipped cream to the fruit and gelatine mixture. Add a few drops (approximately 3–5 drops) of rose essence or orange-flower water. Fold and stir everything together gently but thoroughly until the mixture is uniform in colour and texture with no streaks of white cream remaining.
- 6Lightly rinse a jelly or pudding mould with cold water (this helps the cream release cleanly later — do not dry it). Pour the cream mixture into the mould. Tap the mould gently on the counter a couple of times to remove any air pockets. Place the mould in the refrigerator (or, as the original recipe states, on ice or in a cool place) and leave until completely firm. This will take a minimum of 2–3 hours in a modern refrigerator; overnight is ideal.
- 7Once the cream is fully set and firm to the touch, remove the mould from the refrigerator. To unmould, run a thin knife or palette knife gently around the inside edge of the mould to loosen it. Place a flat serving plate upside-down on top of the mould, then confidently flip both together in one swift motion. The cream should slide out cleanly onto the plate. If it does not release, briefly dip the base of the mould in a bowl of hot water for 5–10 seconds and try again. Serve immediately.