Lòkùm

Lòkùm

A soft, baked pastry from the Ottoman tradition, made from a browned butter-and-flour paste enriched with eggs and hollowed to hold a sweet or savoury filling. These golden, peach-sized rounds are filled with jam, clotted cream, or buttered minced meat and served presented on a white napkin.

Ingredients

  • 340 g (three-quarters of a pound) fresh butter (for the dough) (Unsalted butter works best. Plus a little extra for greasing the baking tin.)
  • 630 g (one pound and six ounces) plain flour (the best quality available) (Use a good quality plain or all-purpose flour. Sift it before use if possible.)
  • 425 ml (three-quarters of a pint) water (Use cold water measured out before you begin.)
  • 10 large eggs (approximately) eggs (You may need slightly fewer — add them one at a time until the paste is soft but holds its shape.)
  • 1 sufficient quantity to fill all pastries jam, clotted cream, or minced meat previously stewed brown in fresh butter (Choose your preferred filling: a good quality fruit jam, thick clotted cream, or finely minced meat that has been cooked through in fresh butter until browned.)

Instructions

  1. 1Place a medium to large heavy-bottomed saucepan on the hob over a medium heat. Add all 340 g (three-quarters of a pound) of the fresh butter and allow it to melt completely, stirring occasionally. The butter should be fully liquid and hot — you will see it begin to bubble gently. Do not let it burn.
  2. 2Once the butter is hot and bubbling, add all 630 g (one pound and six ounces) of the flour to the pan in one go. Immediately begin stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon, making sure to scrape the bottom and sides of the pan continuously. Keep stirring over a medium heat until the mixture turns a light golden-brown colour and smells nutty. This is similar to making a roux. This process will take around 8–10 minutes — do not rush it or the flour will burn on the bottom.
  3. 3Carefully pour all 425 ml (three-quarters of a pint) of water into the pan in a slow, steady stream while stirring constantly. The mixture will spit and steam — be cautious. Continue stirring vigorously over the heat until the water is fully absorbed and the mixture comes together into a smooth, thick, uniform paste that pulls away from the sides of the pan. This will take around 5 minutes of steady stirring.
  4. 4Remove the saucepan from the heat. Transfer the paste to a clean bowl if you prefer, or leave it in the pan. Spread it out slightly to help it cool more evenly. Allow it to cool completely to room temperature before proceeding — this is important, as adding eggs to a hot mixture will scramble them. This will take approximately 60 minutes. You can speed this up by placing the bowl in a cool area or near an open window.
  5. 5Once the paste is fully cold, crack the eggs in one at a time. After each egg, work it into the paste thoroughly using your hands — squeeze, press, and fold the mixture together until each egg is fully incorporated before adding the next. Continue until the paste becomes soft, smooth, and slightly sticky but still holds its shape when formed into a ball. You may not need all 10 eggs — stop when the paste feels soft but not runny. This step requires some effort but is important for the texture of the final pastry.
  6. 6Preheat your oven to 190°C (170°C fan / Gas Mark 5). Lightly grease a baking tin or tray with a small amount of fresh butter, spreading it evenly across the base using a piece of paper or your fingers.
  7. 7Divide the paste into round pieces, each roughly the size of a small peach — approximately the size of a golf ball or slightly larger, around 5–6 cm in diameter. Roll each piece between your palms into a smooth ball. Place them spaced well apart on the prepared baking tin. Once all the balls are placed, use the tip of your index finger to press a hollow indentation into the centre of each one, pushing about halfway down but not all the way through. This hollow will hold the filling after baking.
  8. 8Place the baking tin in the preheated oven. Bake for approximately 20–25 minutes, or until the pastries are a light golden colour — the recipe calls for a 'nice delicate colour', meaning pale golden, not deep brown. Keep an eye on them from 18 minutes onwards. They should be firm on the outside and cooked through. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly before filling.
  9. 9Once the pastries are baked and have cooled slightly so they are safe to handle, spoon your chosen filling into the hollow of each one. Use jam of your choice, a generous dollop of clotted cream, or minced meat that has been cooked through in fresh butter until browned. Fill each hollow generously but neatly.
  10. 10Arrange the filled pastries neatly on a serving plate or dish lined with a clean white cloth or napkin, as was traditional for elegant presentation. Serve immediately while still warm, or at room temperature.
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