Khùrmā
Khùrmā are small, golden fried dough pieces from 19th-century Turkish cuisine, rolled to create a ridged texture and then soaked in a sweet honey or sugar syrup. They are crisp, sticky, and delightfully sweet — similar in spirit to many Middle Eastern fried pastries.
Ingredients
- 1.25 pounds best flour (Use a good-quality plain/all-purpose flour. 1.25 pounds is approximately 560g or about 4.5 cups.)
- 1 teaspoon salt (Fine table salt works well.)
- 4.5 ounces fresh butter, melted (for dough) (Use 4 to 5 ounces (115–140g) of unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled. Unsalted butter is preferred so you can control saltiness.)
- 0.5 pint water (Half a pint is approximately 285ml. Use a little more if the dough feels too stiff — add it gradually.)
- 1 small pinch carbonate of soda (This is baking soda (bicarbonate of soda). Use a small pinch — roughly 1/4 teaspoon. It gives the dough a slight lift.)
- 8 ounces fresh butter (for frying) (Use enough butter to form a shallow-to-medium frying pool in your pan — approximately 225g or 1 cup. It must be brought to a boil/high heat before frying. Clarified butter (ghee) works best as it has a higher smoke point and will not burn as easily.)
- 4 ounces honey, or loaf sugar (Use either pure honey or white sugar (loaf sugar was a refined cane sugar). About 115g or 1/2 cup of either. This forms the syrup.)
- 0.25 pint water (for syrup) (Approximately 140ml or a little over half a cup. Combined with the honey or sugar to make the soaking syrup.)
Instructions
- 1Pour 1.25 pounds (approximately 560g / 4.5 cups) of flour onto a clean, flat work surface such as a large wooden board or clean countertop. Use your hands or a spoon to shape it into a neat mound. Then press your fist or fingers into the centre to create a wide well — like a volcano crater — large enough to hold the butter and salt without them spilling out.
- 2Melt 4 to 5 ounces (115–140g) of fresh butter in a small saucepan over low heat or in a microwave-safe bowl in short 20-second bursts. Allow it to cool slightly so it is warm but not scorching. Pour the melted butter into the well in the flour, then add 1 teaspoon of salt. You should now have the flour mounded around a pool of butter and salt.
- 3Using your fingertips or a fork, begin mixing the butter and salt into the flour. Work from the inside of the well outward, gradually incorporating the flour into the butter. Continue until the mixture looks like coarse, crumbly pieces — similar to breadcrumbs. This is the foundation of your dough.
- 4Measure out half a pint (approximately 285ml) of water into a jug or cup. Add a small pinch (about 1/4 teaspoon) of carbonate of soda (baking soda) to the water and stir briefly until dissolved — it may fizz slightly, which is normal. Gradually pour this liquid into the flour mixture, a little at a time, mixing with your hands as you go. You may not need all the water, or you may need a splash more — the goal is a soft, pliable dough that is not sticky or wet.
- 5Once all the ingredients are combined, knead the dough gently with both hands directly on your work surface for about 2–3 minutes. Push the dough away from you with the heel of your hand, fold it back, rotate it a quarter turn, and repeat. You are aiming for a soft, smooth, slightly flexible dough — it should feel similar to soft playdough. If it sticks to your hands or the surface, dust very lightly with a small amount of flour. Do not over-knead.
- 6Take the entire piece of dough and begin rolling it with both palms on the work surface, using a back-and-forth motion, gradually working your hands outward to stretch the rope as you roll. Continue until you have a long rope of dough that is a little thicker than your thumb — roughly 2–2.5cm (about 1 inch) in diameter. If the dough tears, simply press it back together and continue rolling. Work gently and patiently.
- 7Using a sharp knife or a bench scraper, cut the dough rope into small pieces roughly the size of a date — approximately 2–3cm (about 1 inch) long. Try to keep the pieces roughly even in size so they cook at the same rate. You should end up with quite a few small pieces. Set them aside on a lightly floured surface or a clean tray while you work.
- 8Take each small piece of dough and roll it one at a time across a textured surface to create a decorative ridged pattern on the outside. Traditionally this was done on a basket lid or a woven twig mat. At home, you can use the back of a fork, a sushi mat, a gnocchi board, or a fine wire cooling rack. Place the piece on the surface and press gently with your palm or thumb while rolling it forward. The dough should curl slightly and take on the impression of the texture beneath it. Repeat for all pieces.
- 9Before frying, prepare your syrup so it is ready and hot when the dough pieces are cooked. Place 4 ounces (115g) of honey or white sugar into a small saucepan. Add approximately a quarter pint (140ml) of water. Heat over medium heat, stirring until the honey or sugar fully dissolves into the water. Once dissolved, bring the syrup to a gentle boil and keep it on very low heat so it stays hot and fluid. Do not let it reduce too much — you want a pourable syrup, not a thick caramel.
- 10Place 8 ounces (225g) of fresh butter into a medium, heavy-bottomed frying pan or saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat until the butter has fully melted and is bubbling vigorously — it should be hot enough to sizzle immediately when a small piece of dough is dropped in. Tip: clarified butter (ghee) is ideal here as it handles high heat better. Carefully add the dough pieces in batches — do not overcrowd the pan. Fry, turning occasionally with a slotted spoon, until they are a delicate golden colour all over. This should take about 3–5 minutes per batch. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on a plate lined with paper towels to drain briefly.
- 11Once all the dough pieces are fried and briefly drained, carefully transfer them into the pot of boiling syrup. Use a spoon to gently turn them so they are coated on all sides. Make sure the syrup is still hot and bubbling gently when you add the pieces. Let them sit in the syrup for a few minutes — this allows them to absorb the sweetness and take on a glossy coating.
- 12Using a slotted spoon, lift the syrup-soaked pieces from the pot and arrange them on a serving plate or shallow dish. Try to pile or arrange them neatly — a simple mound or circular arrangement looks attractive. Any remaining syrup in the pot can be spooned lightly over the top if desired. Serve warm or at room temperature.