Kèfal-Bàlighi Pùlàkissi

Ingredients

• 6 whole fish grey mullet, very fresh (Ask your fishmonger to remove the gills and clean the insides if you prefer; look for firm flesh and bright eyes as signs of freshness.)
• 1 pinch (for salting the fish) salt (A light, even sprinkling over the fish pieces.)
• 1 ounce (about 28 g) fresh butter (Unsalted butter works best so you can control the overall saltiness.)
• 0.5 teacup (about 60 ml / ¼ cup) olive oil (Use a mild, good-quality olive oil.)
• 1 pinch (for the stew) salt (Added to the pot along with the butter, oil, and onions.)
• 340 g (¾ lb / about 3 medium onions) onions, sliced (Slice thinly and evenly so they soften at the same rate without browning.)
• 1 handful (about 15 g / ½ cup loosely packed) fresh parsley, chopped (Flat-leaf parsley gives the best flavour; chop just before adding.)
• 2 pinches cayenne pepper (Start with one pinch if you prefer a milder heat, and add a second to taste.)
• 2 lemons (about 60–80 ml / 4–5 tbsp juice) fresh lemon juice (Juice one lemon first, taste the finished dish, and add the second if you like more brightness.)

Instructions

1. 1Using a pair of kitchen scissors or a small knife, remove the gills from each fish by cutting them away at the point where they attach behind each cheek — they are the reddish, comb-like structures just inside the gill cover. Remove the insides (gut the fish) by making a slit along the belly from the vent to just behind the head, then scraping out the contents. Rinse the cavity well under cold running water. Once all six fish are cleaned, cut each one in half crossways (straight across the body) so you have 12 pieces of roughly equal size. A large, sharp knife and a firm chopping board make this easier.
2. 2Pat the fish pieces dry with kitchen paper, then lay them in a single layer in a large dish or on a tray. Sprinkle a little salt lightly and evenly over all the pieces, turning them so both cut sides are lightly seasoned. Leave them uncovered at room temperature for one hour. This brief salting seasons the flesh and draws out a small amount of surface moisture, helping the fish hold together better during cooking.
3. 3Place a large, wide stewpan or deep sauté pan on the hob (stovetop) over medium-low heat. Add the ounce of fresh butter, the half teacup of olive oil, the pinch of salt for the stew, and the three-quarters of a pound of thinly sliced onions all at once. Stir everything together so the onions are coated in the butter and oil.
4. 4Keep the heat at medium-low and cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until they are completely soft, translucent, and collapsing — about 15 to 20 minutes. It is important that they do NOT brown; browning will make the stew bitter and change the delicate flavour of the dish. If at any point the onions start to colour or stick, lower the heat immediately and add a small splash of water to the pan.
5. 5Lay the salted fish pieces on top of the softened onions in a single layer as much as possible. Pour in enough cold water to just cover the fish — roughly 500–750 ml (2–3 cups), depending on the size of your pan. Increase the heat to bring the liquid up to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to maintain a steady, gentle simmer (small bubbles breaking the surface, not a rolling boil). Cook for 20 to 30 minutes. The fish is ready when the flesh is opaque all the way through and flakes easily when pressed gently with a fork. Do not stir vigorously — the fish is delicate and will break apart.
6. 6When the fish is nearly cooked through (about 2–3 minutes before you expect it to be fully done), scatter the handful of chopped parsley evenly over the pan. Add one or two pinches of cayenne pepper — start with one pinch, taste the broth, and add the second if you want more heat. Squeeze in the juice of one lemon, stir the broth very gently around the fish (try not to disturb the fish pieces), then taste and add the second lemon's juice if you like a brighter, more acidic finish. Allow everything to simmer together for a further four to five minutes.
7. 7Using a wide, flat spatula or a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the fish pieces from the pan to a warmed serving dish, keeping them as intact as possible. Spoon the onions and the flavourful cooking broth generously over and around the fish. Serve immediately while hot. The broth is wonderful mopped up with crusty bread, or you can serve the dish alongside plain rice or flatbread.