Kàbàk-Bàsstissi
A traditional Ottoman braised dish of tender mutton or lamb layered with sliced vegetable marrow and golden fried onions, finished with lemon juice, fresh mint, and a dusting of pepper or cinnamon. Simple and warming, this stew is a classic example of Turkish home cooking from the mid-19th century.
Ingredients
- 2 pounds mutton or lamb (Cut into walnut-sized pieces. Lamb will be more tender and quicker to cook; mutton has a stronger flavour.)
- 1 pinch (for boiling) salt (A small amount added to the water when first boiling the meat.)
- 1 enough to cover meat water (Used to cover the meat in the stewpan during the initial boil. The resulting broth is kept and used later.)
- 4 medium (3–4) onions (Peeled and sliced into thin rings or half-moons.)
- 3 tablespoons (or enough to fry onions) fresh butter (Use enough butter to generously coat the frying pan and fry the onions without burning.)
- 5 medium (4–5) vegetable marrows (If vegetable marrows are unavailable, courgettes (zucchini) are the closest modern substitute. Peel, quarter crossways, remove seeds if present, then slice ¾ inch (about 2 cm) thick.)
- 1 to taste (for layering) salt (Added when pouring the cooking liquor over the layered meat and vegetables.)
- 1 as needed liquor from boiling the mutton (The broth left over from boiling the mutton in step 1. Reserve all of it. Use as the main cooking liquid for the second simmer.)
- 1 as needed plain meat broth (if needed to top up) (Only add this if the reserved mutton cooking liquor is not enough to cover the layered ingredients. A simple plain meat stock is appropriate here, in keeping with the original Broth No. 1 from the source text.)
- 2 lemons (juice of 1–2) lemon juice (Freshly squeezed. Use one lemon for a mild tang, two for a brighter, more pronounced acidity.)
- 1 small handful fresh mint, chopped (Finely chopped. Added near the end of cooking for a fresh herbal note.)
- 1 pinch (to taste) black pepper or ground cinnamon (Choose one or the other — pepper for a savoury finish, cinnamon for a warmer, sweeter spiced note. Sprinkled over just before serving.)
Instructions
- 1Place your mutton or lamb on a clean chopping board. Using a sharp knife, cut it into roughly walnut-sized pieces — about 1.5 to 2 inches (4–5 cm) across. They don't need to be perfectly uniform, just broadly similar in size so they cook evenly.
- 2Place the meat pieces into a large stewpan or heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add a pinch of salt and pour over enough cold water to completely cover the meat. Place the pan on the hob over medium-high heat and bring to the boil. As it heats, a grey-brown foam (scum) will rise to the surface — this is normal. As soon as you see it forming, use a large spoon or ladle to skim it off and discard. Once skimmed, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer (small, lazy bubbles). Put a lid on slightly ajar and let the meat simmer until it is nearly tender — this will take roughly 45 minutes to 1 hour for lamb, or up to 1.5 hours for mutton. Test by pressing a piece with a fork; it should yield easily but not be falling apart. Important: once the meat is nearly done, remove it from the pan and set aside. Reserve all of the cooking liquid (broth) — you will need it later.
- 3While the meat is simmering (or once it is done), peel and slice 3 to 4 onions into thin rings or half-moons. Place a frying pan over medium heat and add enough fresh butter to generously coat the bottom — roughly 3 tablespoons. Once the butter has melted and begins to foam, add the sliced onions. Stir occasionally and cook until they are partly brown — golden at the edges with some soft, translucent sections. This takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Don't rush this step; slow frying develops a sweeter, richer flavour. Remove from the heat and set aside.
- 4Peel 4 to 5 vegetable marrows using a vegetable peeler. Cut each one into four sections crossways (i.e., cut across the width of the marrow, not lengthways, so you get rings or cylinders). If the marrow is large and the seeds inside are fully developed and fibrous, scoop out the seedy centre with a spoon. Then slice each section to about ¾ inch (roughly 2 cm) thick. Set the slices aside. Note: if vegetable marrows are not available, courgettes (zucchini) are the best modern substitute and will work well here.
- 5Use the same large stewpan you boiled the meat in (wiped clean if needed). Begin layering the ingredients: place some pieces of the cooked meat across the bottom of the pan in a single layer. On top of the meat, add a layer of vegetable marrow slices and a portion of the fried onions. Add another layer of meat, then more marrow and onions, and continue alternating in this way until all the meat, marrow, and onions have been used up. Try to distribute everything as evenly as possible — there is no need to press down or compact the layers.
- 6Pour the reserved mutton cooking liquor over the layered ingredients. It should come roughly level with the top of the layers. If there is not quite enough, top it up with plain meat broth until the ingredients are just covered. Season with salt to taste — start with a small pinch, as the broth may already carry some salt from step 2. Stir gently around the edges without disturbing the layers if possible.
- 7Place the stewpan back on the hob over medium heat. Bring to a gentle simmer — small, steady bubbles. Put a lid on, slightly ajar to let steam escape. Let the stew simmer until the vegetable marrow is fully tender — it should be soft and yield easily when prodded with a fork, but not mushy or disintegrated. This typically takes 20 to 30 minutes depending on the thickness of your slices and the type of marrow used. Check occasionally and adjust heat as needed to keep a steady gentle simmer rather than a rolling boil.
- 8Once the vegetable marrow is tender, squeeze in the juice of one to two lemons (use one for a mild tang, two for a more vivid brightness — taste as you go). Add a small handful of finely chopped fresh mint and stir gently. Return the pan to the heat and let everything simmer together for exactly two more minutes. This brief final simmer allows the lemon and mint to infuse the dish without losing their freshness.
- 9Remove the pan from the heat. Carefully ladle the stew into a warmed serving dish or directly into individual bowls, trying to keep the layers reasonably intact. Sprinkle a little ground black pepper or ground cinnamon over the top — choose pepper for a savoury, pungent finish or cinnamon for a warm, aromatic note more traditional to Ottoman cuisine. Serve immediately while hot.