Isshākiyyè

Isshākiyyè

A rich Ottoman sweet made by toasting rice flour and pounded almonds in butter until golden, then bringing together with boiling milk and sugar syrup into a thick, fragrant pudding. The mixture is pressed into small moulds and served dusted with white sugar.

Ingredients

  • 1 pound (approximately 450 g) fresh butter (Unsalted butter works best. Cut into pieces so it melts evenly.)
  • 1.5 pounds (approximately 680 g) rice flour (Use fine white rice flour, not glutinous rice flour.)
  • 0.75 pound (approximately 340 g) almonds, skinned and well pounded (To skin almonds, cover with boiling water for 1 minute, drain, and slip skins off. Then pound or process to a fine meal in a food processor or using a pestle and mortar.)
  • 1 pint (approximately 570 ml) full-fat milk, brought to a boil (Heat in a small saucepan until just boiling, then keep warm. Have it ready before you begin the main cooking.)
  • 2 pints worth dissolved (see syrup step) loaf sugar (white sugar) (Used to make the boiling syrup. Loaf sugar is equivalent to refined white granulated sugar. The quantity of sugar and water needed to produce 2 pints of syrup is detailed in the syrup preparation step.)
  • 2 pints worth (see syrup step) water (for syrup) (Combined with the loaf sugar to produce the boiling syrup. Exact ratio described in the syrup preparation step.)
  • 1 small handful (to taste) white sugar, for serving (Sifted lightly over the finished moulds just before serving.)

Instructions

  1. 1Place the almonds in a heatproof bowl and pour boiling water over them to cover. Leave for 1 minute, then drain. Pinch each almond between your fingers to slip off its skin — the skins should slide off easily. Once all the almonds are skinned, transfer them to a food processor and blitz to a fine meal (or use a pestle and mortar and pound until very fine). Set aside. This step must be completed before you begin cooking so everything is ready to add quickly.
  2. 2To make the boiling syrup: combine the loaf sugar (white sugar) with water in a saucepan — use roughly equal parts sugar and water, or enough sugar to make a moderately sweet syrup, targeting 2 pints (approximately 1.1 litres) of finished syrup. Place over medium heat and stir until the sugar is fully dissolved. Bring to a boil and let it boil gently for 2–3 minutes until slightly thickened. Keep it hot on a low flame so it is actively boiling when you need to add it to the main pan. Have the boiling milk ready in a separate saucepan at the same time.
  3. 3Place a large, heavy-based saucepan or stewpan over medium heat. Add the butter and let it melt completely, swirling the pan occasionally. Do not let it brown — you just want it fully melted and hot. Keep the heat at medium.
  4. 4With the butter melted and the pan over medium heat, begin adding the rice flour gradually — add a large spoonful at a time, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon or a sturdy whisk after each addition before adding more. Once all the rice flour is incorporated, add the pounded almonds and stir them in thoroughly. Continue stirring constantly over medium heat. The mixture will be thick and paste-like. Keep stirring for approximately 10–15 minutes until the mixture turns a golden colour and smells toasted and nutty. Be careful not to let it burn — if it starts darkening too fast, lower the heat slightly. Stir continuously throughout.
  5. 5The moment the flour-almond mixture has reached a golden colour, act quickly. Standing back slightly as the liquid will splutter, pour in the pint of boiling milk in one go, stirring constantly. Immediately follow with the two pints of boiling syrup, again pouring steadily while stirring vigorously to combine everything. Both liquids must be actively boiling when added — this is important for the texture of the dish. The mixture will bubble up energetically; keep stirring to prevent lumps.
  6. 6As soon as you have stirred in the milk and syrup, place a tight-fitting lid on the saucepan immediately. Remove the pan from the heat or reduce to the lowest possible setting. Leave it undisturbed with the lid on for exactly five minutes. This resting time allows the mixture to steam and finish cooking through.
  7. 7After the five minutes are up, remove the lid. Use a fork to stir the mixture vigorously and thoroughly. Stirring with a fork (rather than a spoon) helps break up any lumps and gives the pudding a slightly lighter, more even texture. Stir until the mixture is smooth and uniform.
  8. 8While the mixture is still hot and pliable, spoon it into small moulds roughly the size of a teacup (a standard teacup holds about 200 ml — small ramekins or teacups themselves work well). Press the mixture firmly into each mould with the back of a spoon so it takes the shape of the mould. Allow to cool for a few minutes until set enough to hold its shape, then carefully invert each mould onto a serving plate so the pudding comes out bearing the impression of the mould.
  9. 9Just before serving, place a small amount of white sugar in a fine-mesh sieve and tap it gently over each moulded pudding to dust with a light, even coating of sugar. Serve immediately.
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