Irimik Hèlwāssi

Irimik Hèlwāssi

A rich Ottoman sweet pudding made by toasting sago and almonds in butter, then simmering them in a combination of hot milk and sugar syrup, finished with a fragrant splash of rose-water. Comforting, lightly floral, and gently nutty, it is served warm with a dusting of sugar.

Ingredients

  • 0.75 pound fresh butter (Use good-quality unsalted butter for the best flavour.)
  • 22 ounces sago (1 pound and 6 ounces. Pearl sago is the traditional choice; do not rinse before adding to the butter.)
  • 4 ounces skinned almonds (Blanched almonds with the skins removed. You can blanch raw almonds yourself by covering them in boiling water for 1 minute, then slipping off the skins.)
  • 1.5 pint whole milk (Must be brought to a boil just before adding to the pan. Approximately 850 ml.)
  • 1.5 pound loaf sugar (Loaf sugar is a refined white sugar. Regular granulated white sugar is a perfect modern substitute.)
  • 1.5 pint water (Used to make the syrup. Approximately 850 ml.)
  • 1 small splash rose-water (Use food-grade rose-water. A little goes a long way — start with about 1 teaspoon.)
  • 1 small amount sugar (For dusting over the finished dish when serving. A light sprinkling of granulated or caster sugar works well.)

Instructions

  1. 1Before you begin cooking the main dish, make your syrup so it is ready and hot when needed. Combine 1½ pounds (about 680 g) of loaf sugar (or granulated white sugar) with 1½ pints (about 850 ml) of water in a medium saucepan. Place over medium heat and stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Bring the mixture to a rolling boil, then reduce the heat and keep it at a gentle boil. You want it actively hot and bubbling when you add it to the main pan. Keep the heat on low to maintain the temperature.
  2. 2While the syrup is coming to a boil, place a large, heavy-bottomed stewpan or saucepan over medium heat. Add ¾ pound (about 340 g) of fresh butter. Allow the butter to melt completely and heat until it is hot and beginning to foam slightly. Do not let it brown — you just want it melted and hot, ready to receive the sago and almonds.
  3. 3Once the butter is hot, gradually add 1 pound and 6 ounces (about 625 g) of sago and 4 ounces (about 115 g) of skinned almonds to the pan. Add them a little at a time, stirring as you go so they are evenly coated in the butter. Continue to stir constantly over medium heat. The mixture will begin to toast in the butter. Keep stirring until the almonds turn a nice golden brown colour — this is your visual cue that they are ready. Be attentive, as the almonds can go from golden to burnt quickly. This should take roughly 5–8 minutes.
  4. 4While the sago and almonds are toasting, heat 1½ pints (about 850 ml) of whole milk in a separate saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring it to a full boil. Keep a close eye on it — milk can boil over very quickly. Once it reaches a boil, reduce the heat to the lowest setting to keep it hot but not boiling over. You need both the milk and the syrup to be actively boiling hot when you add them to the sago mixture in the next step.
  5. 5Once the almonds are a nice golden brown, pour in both the boiling milk and the boiling syrup all at once, in one go. Stand back slightly as the mixture will bubble and steam vigorously when the liquids hit the hot pan — this is completely normal. Immediately begin stirring well to combine everything thoroughly. Make sure no sago is stuck to the bottom of the pan.
  6. 6Once everything is well combined, place a tight-fitting lid on the pan. Reduce the heat to low and allow the pudding to cook undisturbed for 15 minutes. The sago will absorb the liquid and swell, and the pudding will thicken considerably. Resist the urge to lift the lid during this time.
  7. 7After 15 minutes, remove the lid. Sprinkle a little rose-water over the surface of the pudding — about 1 teaspoon is a good starting point; rose-water is potent, so use it sparingly. Spoon or ladle the pudding into a serving dish or individual bowls. Finally, shake or dust a little sugar over the top and serve immediately while hot.
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