Hèlwāi Khàkāni
A rich Ottoman halva made by toasting a blend of plain flour, wheat starch, and rice flour in butter until golden, then setting it with boiling sugar syrup and milk. The result is a soft, spoonable sweet with a delicate milky flavour, served in generous spoonfuls shaped by the back of the spoon.
Ingredients
- 225 g plain flour (the best quality available) (Weighed out and kept ready before you begin. Half a pound is approximately 225 g.)
- 225 g wheat starch (Available from Asian grocery stores or online. Half a pound is approximately 225 g.)
- 225 g rice flour (Use fine white rice flour. Half a pound is approximately 225 g.)
- 225 g fresh unsalted butter (Use the best quality fresh unsalted butter you can find. Half a pound is approximately 225 g.)
- 400 g white sugar (loaf sugar) (Loaf sugar is refined white sugar. Standard granulated white sugar is the modern equivalent. This amount is used to prepare the boiling syrup with water.)
- 750 ml water (for the syrup) (Combined with the sugar to make a simple boiling syrup. Three pints of finished syrup is approximately 1.7 litres total volume — adjust sugar and water ratio to yield this volume.)
- 1140 ml whole milk (Two pints is approximately 1140 ml. Must be brought to a full boil just before adding to the pan.)
Instructions
- 1Weigh out 225 g of plain flour, 225 g of wheat starch, and 225 g of rice flour. Add them all into a single bowl and stir them together so they are evenly combined. Set the bowl near your stove so it is within easy reach. Having everything ready before you start cooking is important because once the butter is melted you will need to add the flours immediately.
- 2Place 400 g of white sugar and 750 ml of water into a medium saucepan. Set it over a medium-high heat on your stove. Stir gently until the sugar has fully dissolved, then stop stirring and bring the mixture to a rolling boil. You need approximately 1.7 litres (three pints) of hot syrup ready to use. Keep the syrup on a very low heat so it stays at a boil just as you need it in Step 5. Be careful — boiling sugar syrup is very hot and can cause serious burns.
- 3Pour 1140 ml (two pints) of whole milk into a separate saucepan. Set it over a medium heat and bring it to a full boil, stirring occasionally to prevent it catching on the bottom. Watch it carefully — milk can boil over quickly. Once it reaches a full boil, reduce the heat to the lowest setting to keep it hot but not overflowing. You will add this immediately after the syrup in Step 5.
- 4Place 225 g of fresh unsalted butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan or stewpan — it must be large enough to hold all the liquid you will add later. Set it over a medium heat and let the butter melt completely. Once the butter is fully melted, add the combined flour mixture a little at a time, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula after each addition. Do not stop stirring — the mixture will be thick and paste-like. Keep stirring and cooking over a medium heat until the mixture turns a deep golden colour, similar to the colour of golden biscuits. This will take around 10 to 15 minutes. Lower the heat slightly if it darkens too quickly. The toasting of the flour is what gives this halva its characteristic nutty, rich flavour.
- 5This step must be done quickly and carefully. Stand back slightly to protect yourself from steam. With the toasted flour and butter mixture still over the heat, pour all of the boiling syrup over the mixture in one go, followed immediately by all of the boiling milk. The mixture will bubble and steam vigorously — this is normal. Do not stir. Immediately place a tight-fitting lid on the pan to trap the steam inside.
- 6Leave the pan undisturbed with the lid firmly on for exactly fifteen minutes. Do not lift the lid during this time. The steam trapped inside will cook the halva through, allowing the flours to absorb the liquid and set into a soft, thick mass. Set a timer so you do not forget. You can turn the heat off or leave it on the lowest possible setting — the steam will do the work.
- 7After fifteen minutes, carefully remove the lid — be cautious of any remaining steam escaping. Using the back of a large spoon, press and fold the halva mass firmly, working across the whole surface. This is called bruising — it breaks up the set mixture into a smooth, cohesive, slightly textured consistency. Work through the entire pan until the halva is uniform in texture with no large lumps remaining.
- 8To serve, take a large tablespoon and scoop a generous mound of halva onto a serving dish or individual plate. Press the back of the spoon lightly into the top of each portion to leave a shallow impression — this is the traditional presentation described in the original recipe. Serve while warm. Each spoonful should hold its shape but remain soft and yielding.