Ghyùghèj Bàsstissi

Ghyùghèj Bàsstissi

A slow-baked Ottoman mutton and vegetable stew, sealed in a tightly lidded pot to trap all its fragrant steam. Tender pieces of loin of mutton cook together with eggplant, okra, French beans, vegetable marrow, green tomatoes, and onions in a bright lemon and tomato broth.

Ingredients

  • 3.5 pounds (use 3–4 lb) loin of mutton (Cut into walnut-sized pieces. Ask your butcher to do this if preferred. Lamb loin is an acceptable modern substitute.)
  • 1.5 medium (use 1–2) eggplants (aubergines) (Cut into quarters lengthways, then slice crossways into 1-inch thick rounds.)
  • 1 teaspoon (or as needed) salt (for drawing out eggplant juice) (Used to draw bitter juice from the sliced eggplant before adding to the pot.)
  • 6 ounces French beans (Trimmed — remove both ends and any tough strings along the sides.)
  • 60 pods (approximately) okra (Stalks and tips removed, then strung (run a knife along the ridge to remove any tough fibres). Fresh okra is best; frozen may be used but will be softer.)
  • 1.5 medium (use 1–2) vegetable marrows (Peeled and cut into 1-inch slices, the same thickness as the eggplant. Zucchini (courgette) is the closest modern substitute.)
  • 4.5 medium (use 4–5) green tomatoes (Cut into quarters crossways. These are unripe tomatoes — their tartness balances the dish.)
  • 5.5 medium (use 5–6) onions (Peeled and cut into quarters crossways, the same way as the green tomatoes.)
  • 1 teaspoon (or to taste) salt (Season to your preference when assembling the pot.)
  • 0.5 teaspoon (or to taste) pepper (Freshly ground black pepper is ideal.)
  • 1.5 lemons (use juice of 1–2) lemon juice (Squeeze fresh. Remove any seeds before adding.)
  • 1.5 pounds of fresh tomatoes, juiced juice of fresh tomatoes (To extract juice: roughly chop 1.5 lb of ripe tomatoes and press through a sieve or squeeze through a clean cloth. You should yield approximately 1–1.5 cups of juice.)
  • 0.25 pound (4 ounces), melted fresh butter (Only add if the mutton appears lean and not sufficiently fatty. Melt before adding.)
  • 1 batch (see notes) flour paste (Make a thick paste by mixing plain flour with just enough water to form a stiff dough, similar to playdough in consistency. This is used to seal the lid to the pot so no steam escapes during baking.)

Instructions

  1. 1Place your loin of mutton on a stable chopping board. Using a sharp knife, cut it into pieces roughly the size of walnuts — about 1 to 1.5 inches across. Try to keep the pieces a consistent size so they cook evenly. Once cut, place the pieces into a colander or bowl.
  2. 2Rinse the mutton pieces under cold running water to remove any bone fragments or surface impurities. Shake off the excess water and place the pieces in an even layer on the bottom of a large, heavy earthenware or oven-safe casserole pot that has a tight-fitting lid. Set aside.
  3. 3Take your eggplant(s) and stand each one upright on your chopping board. Cut each one into quarters lengthways (slicing from stem to base), then lay each quarter flat and cut crossways into slices about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Place the slices in a colander or on a plate in a single layer (or as flat as possible). Sprinkle salt generously over the slices. Leave them to sit for at least 20 minutes — you will notice droplets of bitter, dark liquid being drawn out onto the surface. This step reduces bitterness and improves texture.
  4. 4Once the bitter juice has been drawn from the eggplant slices (you will see liquid on the surface), gently pat them with a clean cloth or paper towel to remove the excess moisture and salt. Lay the eggplant slices in an even layer directly on top of the mutton pieces in the pot.
  5. 5Prepare each vegetable as follows: French beans — trim both ends and remove any tough strings running along the sides. Okra — cut off the stalks at the top and the very tips at the bottom, then run your knife along any ridges to remove fibres ('stringing'). Vegetable marrows — peel the skin off with a vegetable peeler, then cut into 1-inch slices the same way as the eggplant. Green tomatoes — cut into quarters crossways (just as you did the eggplant in Step 3). Onions — peel away the papery skin and cut into quarters crossways, the same way as the green tomatoes. Add all of these prepared vegetables into the pot on top of the eggplant and meat. Then sprinkle over the salt and pepper, pour in the lemon juice, and pour in the tomato juice. Distribute everything as evenly as you can.
  6. 6Look at the mutton pieces in the pot. If the meat appears very lean with little visible fat, gently melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat or in a heatproof bowl in the microwave in short bursts. Pour the melted butter evenly over the contents of the pot. If the mutton has a good amount of fat marbling, you can skip this step.
  7. 7In a small bowl, mix plain flour with just enough cold water to form a very stiff, thick paste — it should feel like firm playdough and hold its shape when pressed. You want enough to run a continuous ring around the rim of the pot. Place the lid firmly onto the pot. Then take small pieces of the flour paste and press them firmly around the entire gap between the lid and the pot rim, sealing it like a gasket all the way round with no gaps. This seal prevents steam from escaping during the long bake, keeping all the moisture and flavour locked inside.
  8. 8Preheat your oven to 170°C (340°F) / Gas Mark 3 — this is a moderately hot oven. Carefully place the sealed pot in the centre of the oven. Bake for approximately 3 hours without opening the oven or disturbing the pot. The flour paste seal will harden and may crack slightly towards the end — this is normal. Do not attempt to remove the lid during cooking, as breaking the seal will release the steam.
  9. 9Remove the pot from the oven carefully using oven gloves — it will be very heavy and hot. Using a knife or the back of a spoon, break and remove the hardened flour paste from around the lid. Carefully lift the lid away from yourself to avoid the burst of steam. Hold the pot firmly with both hands (use oven gloves) and shake it gently from side to side so the rich gravy at the bottom mixes through and coats all the vegetables. Serve directly from the pot at the table, ladling out portions of meat, vegetables, and plenty of the savoury gravy.
Hungry Democracy

“The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a new star.”

— Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin