A adi Pilaw

A adi Pilaw

A simple, classic Ottoman-style steamed rice dish from 1864, in which washed rice is boiled until it absorbs all its water, then finished with a generous pour of bubbling hot butter and left to steam until every grain is swollen and perfectly separated. Served mounded in a dome, it is rich, fluffy, and deeply satisfying.

Ingredients

  • 2 pints (approximately 1.1 litres / 4.5 cups) water (Use cold tap water. Two pints is the old Imperial measure — roughly 1.1 litres or 4.5 US cups.)
  • 1 pound (approximately 450 g / 2.25 cups) best-quality long-grain white rice (Use the best rice you can find — a long-grain variety such as basmati works well. Must be thoroughly washed before use.)
  • 1 to taste (start with 1 teaspoon and adjust) fine salt (The original calls for 'sufficient salt'. Start with 1 level teaspoon and season to your preference.)
  • 0.5 pound (approximately 225 g) fresh unsalted butter (Use fresh, good-quality unsalted butter. It must be brought to a full boil before pouring over the rice.)

Instructions

  1. 1Place 1 pound (450 g) of rice in a large bowl. Cover it with cold water, swirl it around with your hand, then carefully pour off the cloudy water. Repeat this process 3–4 times until the water runs nearly clear. This removes excess starch and helps the grains stay separate once cooked. Set the washed rice aside in the bowl.
  2. 2Pour 2 pints (approximately 1.1 litres) of water into a medium-to-large heavy-bottomed saucepan. Place it on the hob over high heat and bring it to a full rolling boil. You will know it is ready when large bubbles break the surface vigorously. Keep the heat high.
  3. 3Once the water is at a full boil, carefully add the washed rice and your salt (start with 1 teaspoon). Stir once to combine, then reduce the heat to medium. Allow the rice to boil, uncovered, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking on the bottom, until all of the water has been completely absorbed by the rice. This will take roughly 10–15 minutes. Watch closely toward the end — when you can no longer see any liquid and the surface of the rice looks dry and slightly pitted with small steam holes, it is ready. Do not let it scorch. Reduce heat to low if needed.
  4. 4While the rice is in its final minutes of absorbing all liquid, place a small saucepan on the hob over medium heat. Add the half pound (225 g) of fresh butter. Let it melt completely, then increase the heat slightly and allow it to come to a full boil — you will see it bubbling and foaming vigorously. Watch it carefully at this point; you want it bubbling hot but not browning. Remove it from the heat the moment it reaches a rolling boil.
  5. 5With the rice still in its saucepan and all liquid absorbed, pour the boiling butter all at once, in one go, evenly over the surface of the rice. Do not stir. Immediately place the lid firmly on the saucepan. Now, wet a clean kitchen cloth (a tea towel works well) under cold water and wring it out so it is damp but not dripping. Wrap this damp cloth tightly around the rim and lid of the saucepan. This seal traps the steam inside, which is essential to the dish — it is what makes the grains swell and separate beautifully.
  6. 6Move the sealed saucepan to the lowest heat setting on your hob (or use a heat diffuser if you have one). Leave it completely undisturbed for 30 minutes. The residual steam trapped by the damp cloth will gently finish cooking the rice, making every grain swell and separate. Do not lift the lid during this time — trust the process. If your hob does not have a very low setting, you can place the saucepan on a folded tea towel on your lowest burner to reduce direct heat further.
  7. 7After 30 minutes, carefully unwrap the damp cloth (it may be hot — use oven gloves if needed) and remove the lid. Using a fork — not a spoon — give the rice one gentle stir around the pan. A fork will separate the grains without crushing them. You should find that each grain is plump, fluffy, and well separated from its neighbours. Taste a small amount and adjust salt if needed.
  8. 8Spoon the rice onto a warm serving plate or platter. Use a large spoon to shape it into a rounded dome or mound — this is the traditional way to present pilaw. Serve immediately while hot. The rice should be glistening, buttery, and fragrant, with every grain distinct and fluffy.
Hungry Democracy

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— Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin