A Good Family Soup

A Good Family Soup

A rich, golden veal and ham broth slowly reduced to a jelly and finished with aromatic vegetables, then strained through cloth for a clear, flavourful family soup. This colonial-era recipe from The Housewife's Friend produces a deeply savoury stock-based soup with classic French-influenced technique.

Ingredients

  • 1 small knob (approximately 1 tablespoon) Butter (Just enough to coat the bottom of the stewpan — the original says 'a little butter'.)
  • 3 slices Ham (Use thick-cut cooked or cured ham slices. The original calls for 'some slices of ham'.)
  • 900 grams (approximately 2 seers) Leg of veal (One seer is approximately 450 g in the Indian colonial measurement system, so two seers equals roughly 900 g. Ask your butcher for bone-in leg of veal pieces for the best flavour.)
  • 3 medium Carrots (Peel and roughly chop into large chunks.)
  • 3 medium Onions (Peel and halve or quarter.)
  • 1 ladleful (approximately 150 ml) Good stock (for initial reduction) (Use a good-quality veal, beef, or chicken stock for the initial stewing stage.)
  • 1.5 litres (sufficient quantity) Good stock (to finish the soup) (Add enough stock to cover all the ingredients well and produce a generous pot of soup. The original says 'sufficient quantity'.)
  • 1 small bunch Parsley (Fresh flat-leaf or curly parsley, added as a seasoning herb.)
  • 4 small whole onions Small onions (Peeled and left whole. These are added for seasoning alongside the parsley.)
  • 1 clove Garlic (Peeled and left whole. A single whole clove (spice) is pressed into the garlic clove (bulb) before adding.)
  • 1 whole clove Clove (spice) (Press this single whole clove into the peeled garlic clove before adding to the pot — this is the classic 'clove of garlic stuck with a clove' technique.)

Instructions

  1. 1Before you begin cooking, prepare all your ingredients: peel and roughly chop the 3 carrots into large chunks; peel and halve the 3 medium onions; peel the 4 small whole onions and set aside; peel the garlic clove and press the single whole clove (spice) firmly into it so it stays in place; wash and set aside the parsley bunch. Cut the veal into large manageable pieces if not already done, and have your ham slices ready.
  2. 2Place a large, heavy-bottomed stewpan or deep pot over a medium-low heat. Add the small knob of butter and allow it to melt gently — do not let it brown. Once melted, lay the ham slices across the bottom of the pot in a single layer. Add the veal pieces on top, then scatter in the roughly chopped carrots and halved onions around the meat. The idea is to build a flavourful base in layers.
  3. 3Pour in one ladleful (approximately 150 ml) of good stock. Place the lid on the pot and cook over a slow, gentle heat. Allow the liquid to slowly reduce and concentrate until it thickens into a jelly-like consistency at the bottom of the pot. This process draws flavour from the meat and vegetables and creates a rich base. This will take approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour over a low heat — check occasionally to ensure nothing is sticking or burning. If you see it drying out too quickly, reduce the heat further.
  4. 4Once the contents of the pot have reduced to a jelly and taken on a fine golden-yellow colour, remove the pot from the heat briefly. Using the point of a sharp knife, prick the veal pieces all over — this allows the juices to flow out of the meat and enrich the base further. Replace the lid and return to a low heat to stew for a further 15 minutes. This step deepens the flavour of the soup base.
  5. 5Pour in the remaining stock — approximately 1.5 litres, or enough to cover all ingredients generously and fill the pot to a soup-like consistency. Stir gently to loosen any of the jelly stuck to the bottom of the pot, which will dissolve into the stock and add richness.
  6. 6Add the bunch of parsley, the whole peeled small onions, and the garlic clove that has the whole clove (spice) pressed into it. Bring the pot to a boil over a medium-high heat. As it comes to the boil, a grey-brown foam (scum) will rise to the surface — use a ladle or large spoon to skim this off and discard it. Skimming removes impurities and results in a cleaner, clearer soup. Continue skimming until no more foam rises, which usually takes 5–10 minutes after boiling begins.
  7. 7Once skimmed, reduce the heat to low so the soup simmers gently — small, lazy bubbles should just break the surface. Place the lid on slightly ajar to allow steam to escape. Allow the soup to simmer for approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the veal is completely tender and the broth is deeply flavoured. Avoid a hard boil, which would make the broth cloudy.
  8. 8Once the soup is done and deeply flavoured, remove it from the heat. Use a ladle or large spoon to skim off any remaining fat or foam from the surface. To strain the soup, line a large sieve or colander with a clean piece of muslin cloth (cheesecloth) or a clean tea towel and set it over a large heatproof bowl or second pot. Carefully ladle or pour the soup through the cloth, allowing it to drip through naturally — do not press or squeeze, as this can cloud the broth. Discard the solids left in the cloth. The resulting broth will be clear and golden. Serve hot.
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