Peach Ice Water (Eau de Pêches)

Ingredients

• 6 whole good ripe peaches (Choose very ripe, fragrant peaches for the best flavour. The stones will be cracked open and the kernels removed and used.)
• 1 pint (approximately 570 ml) water (Cold tap or filtered water is fine.)
• 4 ounces (approximately 115 g) sugar (White caster sugar dissolves most easily.)
• 2 lemons, juiced lemon juice (Use fresh lemons. The peel is also used, so wash the lemons well before juicing.)
• 2 lemons, peel only lemon peel (Use a vegetable peeler to remove wide strips of peel, avoiding the white pith which is bitter.)
• 1 wine-glassful (approximately 100 ml) noyeau liqueur (Noyeau is a kernel-flavoured liqueur. If unavailable, a small amount of amaretto (almond liqueur) is a reasonable modern substitute, as both share a similar almond-like flavour derived from fruit kernels.)
• 1 glass (approximately 100 ml) orange-flower water (Available in most supermarkets and Middle Eastern grocery stores.)
• 2 oranges, juiced and strained strained orange juice (Juice the oranges and pass through a fine sieve or strainer to remove pulp and seeds.)
• 1 small amount (a few drops) carmine (red food colouring) (Carmine is a natural red pigment traditionally used to tint the ice a soft rosy blush. Modern food-grade red food colouring can be used. Add just a few drops — the colour should be delicate, not vivid.)

Instructions

1. 1Bring a medium pot of water to the boil. Score a small cross in the base of each peach with a knife. Lower the peaches into the boiling water for 30–60 seconds, then transfer them immediately to a bowl of cold water. The skins should slip off easily with your fingers. Once peeled, cut each peach in half and remove the stone. Using a clean tea towel and a heavy rolling pin or the back of a large spoon, carefully crack each peach stone open and extract the small kernel (the almond-like seed) inside. Collect all 6 kernels. Place the kernels in a zip-lock bag and crush them with a rolling pin, or pound them in a mortar and pestle until finely ground. Set aside.
2. 2Place the peeled and halved peaches into a medium saucepan along with the crushed peach kernels. Add 1 pint (approximately 570 ml) of water, 4 ounces (approximately 115 g) of sugar, the juice of 2 lemons, and the peel of 2 lemons (use wide strips peeled with a vegetable peeler, avoiding the white pith). Stir gently to combine.
3. 3Place the saucepan over medium heat and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes until the peaches are completely soft and tender and the sugar has fully dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly for a few minutes before handling.
4. 4Remove and discard the strips of lemon peel from the cooked fruit. Transfer the cooked peach mixture (including the liquid) to a blender or food processor and blend until completely smooth. This is the modern equivalent of pounding it up smoothly. Next, press the blended mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a large bowl, using the back of a spoon to push it through. Discard any remaining solids. This straining step was historically called 'tammying' (passing through a tammy cloth). The result should be a smooth, silky liquid. Allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until cold.
5. 5Once the peach mixture is cold, stir in 1 wine-glassful (approximately 100 ml) of noyeau liqueur, 1 glass (approximately 100 ml) of orange-flower water, and the strained juice of 2 oranges (pass freshly squeezed orange juice through a fine sieve to remove pulp and seeds before adding). Finally, add a small amount of carmine or red food colouring — start with just 2–3 drops and stir well. The mixture should take on a soft, delicate blush-pink hue. Add one more drop at a time if needed, but do not make it deeply red. Stir everything together well.
6. 6Pour the mixture into an ice cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions until it reaches a soft, granular, sorbet-like consistency. If you do not have an ice cream machine, pour the mixture into a shallow freezer-safe container, cover, and place in the freezer. After 1 hour, remove and stir vigorously with a fork to break up any ice crystals. Repeat this every 30–45 minutes for approximately 3–4 hours until the mixture is fully frozen but still has a light, slushy, granular texture. Serve in chilled glasses or small bowls as a refreshing dessert.