Muscovite of Oranges (Moscovite d'Oranges)

Ingredients

• 0.5 pound (approximately 225g) loaf sugar (or caster/granulated white sugar) (Loaf sugar was a refined white sugar sold in a solid cone shape in the Victorian era. Modern granulated or caster white sugar is a direct equivalent.)
• 10 oranges (peel only, removed with a peeler or zester) orange peel (from 8 to 10 oranges) (Use a vegetable peeler to remove wide strips of peel, avoiding the bitter white pith. You will juice the same oranges in a later step, so keep the fruit.)
• 0.25 ounce (approximately 7g, roughly 1 standard sachet) powdered gelatine (or leaf gelatine equivalent) (Marshall's gelatine was a proprietary setting agent. Modern powdered gelatine or 3–4 gelatine leaves (each approx. 2g) are the closest modern equivalents. Follow package bloom instructions if using leaf gelatine.)
• 1 pint (approximately 570ml) boiling water (Use freshly boiled water to dissolve both the sugar and gelatine.)
• 1 small pinch or a few drops saffron yellow food colouring (or a pinch of saffron steeped in a teaspoon of warm water) (Marshall's saffron yellow was a Victorian liquid food colouring. A pinch of saffron steeped in a teaspoon of warm water for 5 minutes gives a natural golden-yellow colour. Add to taste — you want a light golden hue, not a deep yellow.)
• 10 oranges (juice of) orange juice (freshly squeezed from the same 8 to 10 oranges) (Juice the oranges after peeling them in step 1. Strain out any pips before adding.)
• 1 wine-glass (approximately 100ml) maraschino liqueur (Maraschino is a clear, slightly almond-cherry flavoured Italian liqueur. Luxardo is the most common modern brand. Do not substitute with maraschino cherry syrup.)
• 1 to flavour (start with 1–2 tablespoons and adjust to taste) brandy (Add gradually and taste as you go. The brandy should complement, not overpower, the orange and maraschino flavours.)
• 1 serving amount (approximately 200–300ml, to serve alongside) double cream (for whipping), sweetened and flavoured to taste (Whip until stiff peaks form. Sweeten with a little sugar and flavour as desired (vanilla is a good choice). Serve piped decoratively alongside the unmoulded jelly.)
• 1 serving amount (to serve alongside) compote of oranges or other fruits (fresh or preserved), flavoured with a liqueur of your choice (This is an optional accompaniment. Use fresh or tinned/jarred fruit simmered briefly with a little sugar and your chosen liqueur. Any complementary liqueur works well.)

Instructions

1. 1Place the orange peel strips (from 8–10 oranges), 225g of sugar, and 7g of powdered gelatine into a large heatproof bowl or jug. Pour over 570ml of freshly boiled water and stir well to dissolve the sugar and gelatine completely. Add a small pinch of saffron (steeped in a teaspoon of warm water) or a few drops of saffron yellow food colouring and stir to combine — the mixture should take on a pale golden colour. Make sure the gelatine has fully dissolved with no visible granules before moving on.
2. 2Leave the bowl uncovered at room temperature and allow the mixture to cool completely. This allows the orange peel to infuse its flavour into the liquid. Do not place it in the fridge at this stage, as the gelatine will begin to set. This will take approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour depending on your kitchen temperature. The liquid should be cool to the touch before you proceed to the next step.
3. 3While the mixture was cooling, juice all 8–10 oranges and strain the juice through a sieve to remove any pips or pulp. Once the orange peel infusion is cool, stir in the freshly squeezed orange juice. Then strain the entire mixture through a very fine-mesh sieve or a piece of muslin cloth (cheesecloth) into a clean jug or bowl. This removes the peel and any solids, leaving a clear, pale golden liquid. Discard the strained peel.
4. 4Stir in 100ml (one wine-glass) of maraschino liqueur into the strained orange liquid. Then add brandy, starting with 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring and tasting after each addition. Stop when you are happy with the flavour balance — the brandy should add warmth and depth without overpowering the orange and maraschino. Typically 1–2 tablespoons is sufficient.
5. 5Lightly grease a decorative jelly mould (such as a bundt tin, ring mould, or similar) with a neutral-flavoured oil and wipe away any excess — this will help with unmoulding later. Pour the orange liquid into the mould. Cover with cling film and place in the freezer. Freeze for approximately 4 hours, or until fully set solid. Note: unlike a modern ice cream, this will freeze to a firm, sliceable jelly-ice rather than a creamy texture, which is authentic to the original recipe.
6. 6Remove the mould from the freezer. Fill your kitchen sink or a large bowl with warm (not hot) water. Briefly dip the outside of the mould into the warm water for 5–10 seconds — this gently loosens the frozen dessert from the edges. Place a cold serving plate face-down on top of the mould, then confidently flip the mould and plate over together in one swift motion. Give the mould a firm shake if needed, then carefully lift it away. The muscovite should drop cleanly onto the plate. If it does not release, dip briefly in warm water again for a few more seconds and retry. Return the unmoulded dessert to the freezer for 10–15 minutes if it has softened before serving.
7. 7Just before serving, whip the double cream with a little sugar until stiff peaks form, adding any desired flavouring (such as vanilla). Transfer the whipped cream to a piping bag fitted with a large star or rose nozzle. Pipe the cream decoratively around or alongside the unmoulded muscovite on the serving plate, forming rose-like swirls. Serve immediately.
8. 8Bring the compote of oranges or other fruits (fresh or preserved) to the table alongside the muscovite and whipped cream. Spoon the compote around or beside the dessert when plating individual portions. The fruit compote and liqueur flavours complement the frozen orange muscovite beautifully and add colour and variety to the plate.