Little Soufflés of Cheese (Petits Soufflés de Fromage Glacés)

Ingredients

• 3 ounces Parmesan cheese, finely grated (Grate as finely as possible for a smooth texture. Pre-grated from a block is ideal.)
• 2 ounces Gruyère cheese (Finely grate or crumble; it should be soft enough to blend smoothly into the mixture.)
• 1 good pinch Salt (A 'good pinch' is roughly 1/8 teaspoon. Adjust to taste.)
• 1 dust (very small pinch) Coralline pepper (or mild cayenne pepper) (Marshall's coralline pepper was a mild decorative pepper. Substitute with the smallest pinch of mild cayenne or sweet paprika.)
• 1 dust (very small pinch) Caster sugar (A 'dust' is just a tiny pinch — less than 1/8 teaspoon. This adds a barely perceptible balance, not sweetness.)
• 0.5 pint (approximately 285ml) Strong aspic jelly, liquid but cool (Use a good-quality store-bought aspic or powdered aspic prepared according to packet instructions. It should be liquid but not warm — allow it to cool to room temperature until syrupy but not yet set before using.)
• 0.75 pint (approximately 425ml) Double cream, stiffly whipped (Whip cold double (heavy) cream until it holds stiff peaks. Do not over-whip to butter. This is the base volume before whipping; whip from chilled cream.)
• 1 dessertspoonful (approximately 10ml) White tarragon vinegar (Marshall's white tarragon vinegar was a white wine vinegar infused with tarragon. Use white tarragon vinegar or substitute with a good white wine vinegar with a small pinch of dried tarragon.)

Instructions

1. 1Select 6 small individual moulds — ramekins, dariole moulds, or small soufflé dishes all work well. To create the classic 'soufflé risen above the rim' illusion, cut strips of greaseproof (parchment) paper about 5cm (2 inches) taller than the rim of each mould. Wrap a strip around the outside of each mould and secure with a rubber band or a piece of string so the paper collar stands about 3–4cm above the rim. This will hold the mixture in place as it sets, giving the impression of a risen soufflé once the collar is removed. Set the prepared moulds on a tray and place in the refrigerator to chill while you prepare the mixture.
2. 2Pour the three-quarters of a pint (approximately 425ml) of cold double cream into a large, chilled mixing bowl. Using a hand whisk or electric hand mixer, whip the cream until it holds stiff peaks — when you lift the whisk, the cream should stand up firmly without drooping. Be careful not to over-whip; stop as soon as stiff peaks form. Place the whipped cream in the refrigerator to keep cold while you prepare the rest of the mixture.
3. 3If your aspic jelly is already set or solid, gently warm it in a small saucepan over very low heat, stirring, just until it liquefies. Do not let it boil. Remove from heat immediately and allow it to cool at room temperature until it is syrupy and cool to the touch but not yet re-set — this is important so it does not melt the whipped cream when combined. If your aspic is already in liquid form, simply ensure it is at cool room temperature before proceeding.
4. 4In a large mixing bowl, combine the 3 ounces of finely grated Parmesan and the 2 ounces of finely grated Gruyère cheese. Add the good pinch of salt, the tiny dust of coralline pepper (or mild cayenne), and the tiny dust of caster sugar. Add the 1 dessertspoonful (approximately 10ml) of white tarragon vinegar. Stir everything together well until the cheeses and seasonings are evenly combined.
5. 5Pour the cool, syrupy aspic jelly into the cheese and seasoning mixture. Stir gently but thoroughly until the aspic is fully incorporated with the cheeses and the mixture is uniform. The aspic will begin to help bind and set the mixture as it cools. Work at a moderate pace — you want the mixture to remain fluid enough to fold in the cream in the next step before it sets.
6. 6Remove the whipped cream from the refrigerator. Using a large metal spoon or flexible spatula, gently fold the stiffly whipped cream into the cheese and aspic mixture. To fold correctly: cut down through the centre of the mixture with the spoon, sweep along the bottom of the bowl, and bring the mixture up and over in a gentle turning motion. Rotate the bowl a quarter turn and repeat. Continue folding just until no streaks of white cream remain — do not stir or beat, as this will deflate the cream and result in a denser texture. Work quickly but gently so the aspic does not begin to set unevenly.
7. 7Remove the prepared moulds from the refrigerator. Carefully spoon or pour the cheese mixture into each mould, filling up to the top of the paper collar (above the rim of the mould itself). Gently tap each mould on the countertop once or twice to settle the mixture and eliminate any air pockets. Smooth the tops lightly with the back of a spoon. Place the filled moulds back onto the tray and transfer to the refrigerator. Allow to set for a minimum of 4 hours, or ideally overnight, until the soufflés are completely firm throughout.
8. 8When ready to serve, remove the moulds from the refrigerator. Carefully slide off or cut away the rubber band or string holding each paper collar. Gently peel the paper collar away from each soufflé, working slowly so as not to tear the sides of the set mixture. The soufflé should now appear to stand proudly above the rim of the mould, mimicking a traditional hot soufflé. Serve immediately, still in their moulds, on small plates.