Italian Cream Ice (Crème à l'Italienne)

Ingredients

• 1.5 pints (850 ml) cream or milk (Use single or double cream for a richer result, or whole milk for a lighter ice.)
• 1 small strip lemon peel (Use a vegetable peeler to remove a strip of peel without the white pith, which is bitter.)
• 1 small piece of stick or a pinch of ground cinnamon (A small stick of cinnamon or a scant pinch of ground cinnamon — use sparingly as it is a background flavour.)
• 10 yolks raw egg yolks (Separate the yolks from the whites carefully. The yolks alone are used; discard or save the whites for another use.)
• 3.5 sheets (use 3 for a softer set, 4 for firmer) gelatine sheets (Use standard leaf gelatine available from most supermarkets. Soak in cold water before use.)
• 6 oz (170 g) caster sugar (Caster sugar (superfine sugar) dissolves more easily than granulated sugar.)
• 1 large wine-glassful (approx. 100 ml) pale brandy (A light or white brandy is traditional. A standard Cognac works well if pale brandy is unavailable.)
• 0.5 glass (approx. 50 ml) noyeau (Noyeau is an almond-flavoured liqueur made from fruit kernels. Amaretto is an accessible modern substitute if noyeau cannot be sourced.)
• 3 lemons, freshly squeezed lemon juice (Approximately 90–100 ml of fresh juice. Roll the lemons on a hard surface before juicing to extract more juice.)
• 0.25 pint (140 ml) rose-water (Use food-grade rose-water, available from Middle Eastern grocers and many supermarkets. It is strongly perfumed, so measure carefully.)

Instructions

1. 1Place 3 or 4 gelatine sheets into a bowl of cold water, making sure they are fully submerged. Leave them to soak for 5 minutes until they become soft and floppy. Set aside — do not drain yet. You will add them to the hot custard later.
2. 2Pour 1½ pints (850 ml) of cream or milk into a medium saucepan. Add a small strip of lemon peel and the cinnamon. Place the pan over a medium heat. Watch carefully and heat until the liquid just begins to steam and tiny bubbles appear around the edge — this is called scalding. Do not let it boil. Remove from the heat immediately.
3. 3While the cream is heating, place 10 egg yolks and 6 oz (170 g) of caster sugar into a large heatproof bowl. Whisk them together vigorously until the mixture turns pale yellow and slightly thickened — about 2 minutes of whisking. This step is important: it prevents the yolks from scrambling when the hot cream is added.
4. 4Slowly pour the hot scalded cream onto the egg yolk and sugar mixture, whisking constantly as you pour. Add it in a thin, steady stream at first — this gradual mixing (called tempering) prevents the eggs from cooking too quickly and scrambling. Once all the cream is incorporated, the mixture should look smooth and pale.
5. 5Lift the soaked gelatine sheets out of the cold water one by one, squeezing out any excess water with your hands. Drop them into the warm custard mixture and stir well until they are completely dissolved. You should not see any pieces of gelatine remaining.
6. 6Pour the custard mixture back into the saucepan. Cook over a low to medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon in a figure-of-eight motion. Continue until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon — when you draw a finger through the custard on the spoon, the line should hold cleanly. This usually takes 8–12 minutes. Do not allow the mixture to boil, as this will cause the eggs to scramble. If you see any steaming intensify or the mixture begins to bubble, remove from the heat immediately and stir vigorously.
7. 7Remove the custard from the heat. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a clean bowl. Pour the custard through the sieve to remove the lemon peel, cinnamon, and any accidentally scrambled bits of egg. Press gently with the back of a spoon. Discard what remains in the sieve. The custard in the bowl should be perfectly smooth. This step is the modern equivalent of passing through a 'tammy' cloth, as the original recipe instructs.
8. 8Allow the strained custard to cool to room temperature. To speed this up, place the bowl over a larger bowl filled with ice and cold water, and stir occasionally. Once at room temperature, cover the surface of the custard directly with a piece of clingfilm (plastic wrap) pressed flat against it — this prevents a skin from forming. Refrigerate until fully cold, at least 1 hour.
9. 9Once the custard is fully cool, remove from the refrigerator. Stir in 1 large wine-glassful (approximately 100 ml) of pale brandy, half a glass (approximately 50 ml) of noyeau, the freshly squeezed juice of 3 lemons, and a quarter-pint (140 ml) of rose-water. Stir everything together until well combined. Taste — the mixture should be fragrant, citrusy, and lightly sweet. Note that the flavours will mellow slightly once frozen.
10. 10If using an ice cream machine: pour the flavoured custard into your machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions, usually 20–30 minutes, until it reaches a thick, soft-serve consistency. Transfer to a freezer-safe container, smooth the surface, cover with a lid or clingfilm, and freeze for at least 2–3 hours until firm. If you do not have an ice cream machine: pour the mixture into a shallow freezer-safe container and place in the freezer. Every 30–45 minutes for the first 3 hours, remove and beat the mixture vigorously with a fork or electric whisk to break up ice crystals. This gives a smoother result. Then leave to freeze fully for at least 2 hours without disturbing.
11. 11Remove the cream ice from the freezer 5–10 minutes before serving to allow it to soften slightly, making it easier to scoop. Serve in chilled bowls or dessert glasses as a dinner or dessert course. Use a warm ice cream scoop (dipped briefly in hot water and dried) for clean, neat portions.