Greengage Cream Ice (Crème de Prunes de Reine-Claude)

Ingredients

• 2 pints (approximately 900g) ripe greengages (Choose soft, fully ripe greengages for the best flavour and colour. If unavailable, ripe golden plums are a reasonable substitute.)
• 0.5 pint (300ml) water
• 8 ounces (225g) caster sugar (Fine caster sugar dissolves quickly and evenly. Standard granulated sugar also works.)
• 4 sheets gelatine sheets (Use standard-strength leaf gelatine (platinum or gold grade). Soak in cold water for 5 minutes before use to soften.)
• 1 small amount (a few drops) green food colouring (Add drop by drop until you achieve a pale, natural green shade. Do not over-colour.)
• 1 wine glass (approximately 60ml) maraschino syrup (Maraschino syrup is the sweet, cherry-flavoured syrup found in jars of cocktail cherries, or sold separately. It adds a subtle floral sweetness.)
• 2 pints (1.2 litres) custard or double cream (Use a pouring custard (made from egg yolks, sugar and milk or cream) or plain double cream. A rich, lightly sweetened vanilla custard works beautifully here.)

Instructions

1. 1Wash the greengages thoroughly under cold running water. One by one, use a small paring knife to cut around the natural crease of each fruit, twist the two halves apart, and lift out the stone with the tip of the knife. Discard the stones. You do not need to peel the fruit — the skin will break down during cooking.
2. 2Place the 4 gelatine sheets into a bowl of cold water, making sure they are fully submerged. Leave them to soak for 5 minutes — they will become soft and pliable. Set aside until needed. Do not use warm or hot water, as this will begin dissolving them prematurely.
3. 3Pour the half pint (300ml) of water into a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add the 8 ounces (225g) of caster sugar and stir briefly to combine. Lift the softened gelatine sheets out of the cold water, gently squeeze out any excess water with your hands, and add them to the pan. Place the pan over a medium-low heat and stir gently until the sugar and gelatine have completely dissolved — do not allow it to boil at this stage.
4. 4Add the stoned greengages to the pan with the sugar-gelatine liquid. Increase the heat to medium and bring the mixture to a gentle boil, stirring occasionally. Continue to cook, stirring frequently and pressing the fruit against the sides of the pan with the back of a spoon, for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the greengages have completely broken down and the mixture looks smooth and pulpy. Reduce the heat if it bubbles too aggressively.
5. 5Remove the pan from the heat. Add the maraschino syrup (approximately 60ml / one wine glass) and stir it in. Then add the green food colouring a single drop at a time, stirring after each drop, until the mixture has a soft, natural pale green hue. Be cautious — it is much easier to add more colour than to remove it.
6. 6Set a fine-mesh sieve over a large mixing bowl. Pour or ladle the hot greengage mixture into the sieve and press it firmly through using the back of a spoon or a spatula. Work the pulp against the mesh until only dry fibres and skin remain in the sieve — discard these solids. The result should be a smooth, velvety purée in the bowl. This replaces the traditional 'passing through the tammy' (a fine cloth strainer) used in the original recipe.
7. 7Leave the strained greengage purée to cool to room temperature. You can speed this up by setting the bowl inside a larger bowl filled with ice and cold water, stirring the purée occasionally. The mixture should be cool — not warm — before it is combined with the custard or cream, to avoid curdling or melting it.
8. 8Pour the 2 pints (1.2 litres) of custard or double cream into a large bowl. Add the cooled greengage purée and fold gently together using a spatula or large spoon until fully combined and evenly coloured. The mixture should be smooth and pourable.
9. 9If using an ice cream machine: pour the combined mixture into your ice cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically 20 to 30 minutes, until thick and creamy. Transfer to a lidded freezer-safe container and freeze for at least 2 hours until firm. If churning by hand: pour the mixture into a shallow freezer-safe container, cover with a lid or cling film, and place in the freezer. After 1 hour, remove and beat vigorously with a fork or electric hand whisk to break up ice crystals. Repeat this process every hour for 3 to 4 hours until the ice cream is smooth and frozen solid.
10. 10Remove the greengage cream ice from the freezer 5 to 10 minutes before serving to allow it to soften slightly, making it easier to scoop. Serve in chilled bowls or glasses. This ice is well suited to a formal dinner as a palate cleanser between courses, or as a light and elegant dessert.