Cucumber Cream Ice (Crème de Concombres)

Cucumber Cream Ice (Crème de Concombres)

A delicately flavoured Victorian cream ice made from cooked cucumber, lemon, and ginger brandy, churned with sweetened cream into a refreshing frozen dessert. The gentle green colouring and unusual combination of ingredients make this an elegant and surprising dish from the golden age of ices.

Ingredients

  • 1 large cucumber (To be peeled and seeds removed before cooking)
  • 4 ounces castor sugar (Fine white sugar; caster sugar is the modern equivalent)
  • 2 lemons' worth lemon peel (Pared strips of peel from the same lemons used for juice; avoid the white pith)
  • 0.75 pint water (Approximately 425 ml)
  • 1 wine-glass ginger brandy (Approximately 60–75 ml; a ginger-infused brandy liqueur)
  • 1 small amount green food colouring (A few drops only; use a natural green food colouring such as spinach extract if preferred)
  • 2 lemons' worth lemon juice (Freshly squeezed from the same two lemons whose peel was used)
  • 1 pint sweetened cream or custard (Approximately 570 ml; use lightly sweetened double cream or a pourable vanilla custard)

Instructions

  1. 1Using a vegetable peeler, peel the entire skin from the large cucumber and discard it. Slice the cucumber in half lengthways, then use a teaspoon to scoop out and discard all the seeds from both halves. Roughly chop the cucumber flesh into chunks of about 2 cm so it cooks evenly. Set aside. At the same time, pare the peel from both lemons in wide strips, being careful to avoid the bitter white pith underneath. Squeeze the juice from both lemons and set it aside separately.
  2. 2Place the chopped cucumber chunks into a medium saucepan. Add the 4 ounces (approximately 115 g) of castor sugar, the strips of lemon peel, and the ¾ pint (approximately 425 ml) of water. Stir briefly to combine. Place the saucepan over a medium heat and bring to a gentle simmer. Continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, for approximately 20–25 minutes, or until the cucumber is completely soft and tender and can be easily crushed with the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat.
  3. 3Allow the cooked cucumber mixture to cool for 5 minutes so it is safer to handle. Remove and discard the strips of lemon peel. Transfer the cooked cucumber and any liquid in the pan into a blender or food processor, and blend until completely smooth — this is the modern equivalent of pounding in a mortar. Once smooth, add the wine-glass (approximately 60–75 ml) of ginger brandy, the reserved fresh lemon juice from both lemons, and a few drops of green food colouring. Blend again briefly until everything is evenly combined.
  4. 4Set a fine-mesh sieve (the modern equivalent of a tammy cloth) over a large bowl. Pour the blended cucumber mixture through the sieve, pressing down firmly with the back of a spoon to push as much liquid and pulp through as possible. Discard any fibrous solids remaining in the sieve. The strained liquid should be smooth and pale green. Allow this strained mixture to cool fully to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 30 minutes until thoroughly chilled.
  5. 5Once the cucumber mixture is fully chilled, pour it into a large bowl. Add the 1 pint (approximately 570 ml) of sweetened cream or custard, and stir gently with a whisk or spoon until the two are thoroughly and evenly combined. Taste the mixture — it should be sweet, lightly lemony, and gently spiced from the ginger brandy.
  6. 6If using an ice cream maker: pour the combined mixture into your ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically 20–30 minutes, until thick and frozen to a soft-serve consistency. Transfer to a lidded freezer-safe container and freeze for a further 2 hours until firm. If you do not have an ice cream maker: pour the mixture into a shallow freezer-safe container and place it in the freezer. Every 30 minutes for the first 2–3 hours, remove the container and vigorously stir the mixture with a fork, breaking up any ice crystals forming at the edges. Repeat 4–5 times until the mixture is evenly frozen and creamy in texture, then leave to freeze fully.
  7. 7Remove the cucumber cream ice from the freezer approximately 5 minutes before serving to allow it to soften slightly. Scoop into chilled dessert glasses or bowls and serve immediately as a dessert.
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