Cherry Cream Ice (Crème de Cerises)

Cherry Cream Ice (Crème de Cerises)

A Victorian cherry cream ice made by simmering fresh cherries and their kernels in sugar syrup, then blending with custard or sweetened cream and a splash of kirsch before freezing. The result is an elegantly flavoured frozen dessert with a deep cherry taste and delicate almond undertone from the cherry kernels.

Ingredients

  • 1 pound (approximately 450 g) cherries (Fresh ripe cherries work best; any sweet variety such as Morello or Bing is suitable.)
  • 0.5 pint (approximately 285 ml) water (Plain cold water for the cooking syrup.)
  • 3 ounces (approximately 85 g) castor sugar (Castor sugar (also called superfine sugar) dissolves more easily than regular granulated sugar. Substitute with regular granulated sugar if needed.)
  • 1.5 lemons (freshly squeezed) juice of lemons (Use fresh lemons. 1½ lemons yields approximately 3–4 tablespoons of juice.)
  • 1 small amount (a few drops) carmine or cherry red food colouring (Use a tiny amount — just enough to give the ice a pleasing pink-red colour. A natural red food colouring such as beet-based colouring is a modern alternative.)
  • 1 pint (approximately 570 ml) custard or sweetened cream (Use a poured vanilla custard (made from egg yolks, milk or cream, and sugar) or lightly sweetened whipped or pouring cream. A ready-made fresh vanilla custard works well for beginners.)
  • 1 wine-glass (approximately 60 ml / 2 fl oz) kirsch (Kirsch is a clear cherry brandy. It adds depth and helps keep the ice from freezing rock-solid.)

Instructions

  1. 1Wash 1 pound (450 g) of ripe cherries. Using a cherry stoner or a small sharp knife, remove and discard the stalks, then stone each cherry — that is, remove and set aside the hard stone (pit) from the centre of each cherry. Place the stoned cherry flesh into a medium saucepan. Keep all the stones; you will need them in the next step.
  2. 2Place the cherry stones on a sturdy chopping board. Working carefully, use the flat side of a heavy knife, a nutcracker, or a rolling pin to crack each stone open. Inside you will find a small pale kernel — this looks like a tiny almond. Remove all the kernels and add them to the saucepan with the cherry flesh. Discard the broken stone shells. Note: Cherry kernels contain small amounts of amygdalin, which breaks down during cooking; cooking them for 10 minutes as directed is sufficient for this traditional preparation.
  3. 3Add half a pint (285 ml) of water and 3 ounces (85 g) of castor sugar to the saucepan containing the cherry flesh and kernels. Stir to combine. Place the saucepan over a medium heat and bring to a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally to help the sugar dissolve. Once simmering, cook for about 10 minutes, until the cherries are completely soft and the liquid has taken on a deep red colour. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for a few minutes before the next step.
  4. 4Transfer the cooked cherries, kernels, and all of their cooking liquid into a food processor or blender. Blend until you have a smooth, thick purée. Alternatively, use a potato masher or pestle and mortar to pound and crush everything together as thoroughly as possible — the original recipe calls for pounding, so the goal is a fine, uniform paste. Do not discard any of the liquid.
  5. 5Squeeze the juice from 1½ lemons (approximately 3–4 tablespoons) directly into the blended cherry purée. Add a few drops of carmine or cherry red food colouring — just enough to give the mixture a vivid, appealing pink-red colour. Stir or blend briefly to combine everything evenly.
  6. 6Set a fine-mesh sieve (or a piece of muslin/cheesecloth) over a large bowl. Pour the cherry mixture through the sieve, pressing or squeezing firmly with the back of a spoon or spatula to push through as much liquid and pulp as possible. Discard any remaining solids (skin fragments, kernel pieces) that will not pass through. The original recipe calls for a 'tammy cloth or hair sieve' — a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth achieves the same result. The strained liquid in your bowl should be smooth and brightly coloured.
  7. 7Pour 1 pint (570 ml) of custard or sweetened cream into the bowl with the strained cherry mixture. Then add 1 wine-glass (approximately 60 ml) of kirsch. Stir gently but thoroughly until everything is evenly combined and the mixture has a uniform colour and consistency. If using custard, ensure it is fully cooled before mixing to prevent curdling.
  8. 8Pour the combined cherry cream mixture into an ice cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions until it reaches a soft, creamy frozen consistency — typically 20 to 30 minutes. If you do not have an ice cream machine, pour the mixture into a shallow freezer-safe container, cover, and place in the freezer. After 45 minutes, remove and stir vigorously with a fork to break up any ice crystals forming at the edges. Repeat this stirring process every 30–45 minutes for 3 to 4 hours, until the ice cream is evenly frozen and scoopable.
  9. 9To serve, scoop the cherry cream ice into a pile in the centre of a serving dish lined with a folded cloth napkin (as the original recipe suggests), or press it into a decorative mould, freeze until firm, then unmould onto a plate by briefly dipping the outside of the mould in warm water and inverting. Serve immediately as a dessert.
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