Gooseberry Chatney

Gooseberry Chatney

A tangy, spiced gooseberry chutney from the 1836 Pakasastra, made by fermenting pounded gooseberries with green chillies and salt before finishing with fenugreek powder, red chilli powder, asafoetida, and sesame oil. The eight-day fermentation develops a deep, complex flavour.

Ingredients

  • 8 measures April gooseberries (Use fresh, firm gooseberries harvested in April. A 'measure' is a traditional South Indian unit; use a consistent cup or vessel as your measure throughout the recipe.)
  • 2 measures green chillies (Use the same vessel as your measure for gooseberries. Adjust quantity to your heat tolerance if needed, but the original recipe specifies 2 measures.)
  • 2 measures salt (The original calls for 'prepared' salt, which likely refers to salt that has been dried or lightly roasted. Plain coarse salt works well. Use the same measure as above.)
  • 2 ollocks menti powder (fenugreek seed powder) (Menti is the Telugu word for fenugreek. An 'ollock' is a traditional South Indian unit roughly equivalent to about 100–120 ml or 3–4 tablespoons. Use pre-ground fenugreek powder or grind roasted fenugreek seeds yourself.)
  • 1 ollock red chilli powder (Use standard dried red chilli powder. One ollock is approximately 100–120 ml or 3–4 tablespoons.)
  • 1 tolah asafoetida (hing) (A 'tolah' is a traditional Indian unit of weight approximately equal to 11.7 grams or roughly 1 tablespoon. The asafoetida must be fried in ghee before adding — see instructions.)
  • 1 small amount (enough to fry the asafoetida) ghee (Used only for frying the asafoetida. Use just enough to coat the pan lightly — approximately 1 teaspoon.)
  • 20 pollams gingillie oil (sesame oil) (Gingillie oil is sesame oil. A 'pollam' is a traditional South Indian unit approximately equal to 12 grams, making 20 pollams roughly 240 grams or about 260 ml (just over 1 cup). The oil must be properly boiled before use — see instructions.)

Instructions

  1. 1Measure out eight measures of April gooseberries using a consistent cup or vessel. Place them in a large bowl and cover completely with warm water. Leave them to soak for four hours. Soaking softens the skins and loosens the pulp, making them easier to pound. Keep the bowl in a warm spot and ensure all the gooseberries are submerged.
  2. 2Drain the soaked gooseberries. Working in small batches, place them in a large mortar and pound firmly with the pestle until the flesh breaks down into a rough, chunky paste. You are not trying to make a smooth purée — a coarse, textured paste is the goal. If you do not have a large mortar, you can use a food processor and pulse briefly, but a mortar gives a more authentic texture.
  3. 3Carefully pick through the pounded gooseberry mixture and remove all the seeds. Gooseberry seeds are small and firm — feel through the paste with your fingers or use a spoon to find and discard them. Removing the seeds ensures a pleasant texture in the final chutney.
  4. 4Transfer the de-seeded gooseberry paste into a clean, dry ceramic or glass jar or vessel — avoid metal containers, as the acidity can react with them. Add the two measures of green chillies (leave them whole or roughly chop them) and the two measures of salt. Stir everything together well so the salt and chillies are evenly distributed throughout the gooseberry paste.
  5. 5Cover the mouth of the jar tightly with a lid or secure cloth. Place the jar in a warm spot away from direct sunlight. Leave it undisturbed for eight full days. The salt will draw out moisture from the gooseberries and chillies, and the mixture will begin to ferment, developing a deeper, more complex flavour. Do not open the jar during this period.
  6. 6On day eight, before opening the jar, prepare the sesame oil. Pour the twenty pollams (approximately 260 ml / just over 1 cup) of sesame oil into a small saucepan. Heat over a medium flame, bringing it to a full boil — you will see wisps of smoke and the oil will shimmer. Allow it to boil for 1–2 minutes, then remove from heat and set aside to cool completely. Boiling the oil removes excess moisture and raw flavour, helping to preserve the chutney.
  7. 7Heat a very small amount of ghee (approximately 1 teaspoon) in a small pan over a low flame. Add the one tolah (approximately 1 tablespoon / 11.7 g) of asafoetida to the ghee. Fry it gently for 30–60 seconds, stirring, until it puffs slightly and becomes fragrant. Do not burn it — asafoetida burns quickly. Remove from heat and set aside. Frying asafoetida in fat mellows its sharp raw flavour and releases its aromatic qualities.
  8. 8After eight days, open the fermentation jar. The mixture should smell tangy and slightly fermented — this is correct. Add the two ollocks of fenugreek (menti) powder, the one ollock of red chilli powder, the fried asafoetida (along with any ghee remaining in the pan), and the cooled boiled sesame oil. Stir everything together thoroughly until all the spices and oil are fully incorporated into the gooseberry mixture.
Hungry Democracy

“The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a new star.”

— Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin