Dried Vegetables Friable in Ghee

Ingredients

• 100 whole pollakaya (ripe) (Pollakaya refers to a type of Indian gourd or vegetable used in Telugu cuisine; select fully ripe specimens. If unavailable, substitute with a similar ripe gourd of roughly comparable size.)
• 100 whole vendakaya (ripe) (Vendakaya is the Telugu name for okra (ladies' fingers). Use fully ripe, firm okra pods.)
• 100 whole averakaya (ripe) (Averakaya is the Telugu name for broad beans or field beans (Lablab purpureus). Select ripe pods.)
• 100 whole pavakaya (ripe) (Pavakaya is the Telugu name for bitter gourd (karela). Use fully ripe bitter gourds.)
• 100 whole catereekaya (ripe) (Catereekaya is identified as brinjal or eggplant (Solanum melongena) in historic Telugu culinary texts. Use ripe specimens.)
• 100 whole pooshenikaya (ripe) (Pooshenikaya is ash gourd (Benincasa hispida). Select fully ripe, firm ash gourds.)
• 100 whole vellereckaya (ripe) (Vellereckaya is identified as cucumber or a related cucurbit. Use ripe specimens.)
• 100 whole sookkamkaya or bryania caloessa (ripe) (Sookkamkaya, also called bryania caloessa, is a type of wild or cultivated cucurbit (possibly Bryonopsis laciniosa or a related species). Use ripe specimens. Substitute with a comparable small gourd if unavailable.)
• 1 sufficient quantity to submerge vegetables acid whey (Acid whey is the thin, tangy liquid left over after straining yoghurt or making paneer. To make your own: strain full-fat plain yoghurt through a muslin cloth overnight in the refrigerator; the liquid that drips through is your acid whey. Use enough to fully submerge the dried vegetable slices.)
• 1 to taste salt (Plain table salt or sea salt. Add enough to season the acid whey soaking liquid to a noticeably salty brine.)
• 1 sufficient quantity for frying melted butter (ghee) or gingillie oil (Melted butter here refers to ghee (clarified butter), traditional to this recipe. Gingillie oil is sesame oil. Use whichever you prefer or have available. Use enough to shallow-fry the dried vegetable slices in a single layer — roughly enough to coat the base of the pan to a depth of about 5 mm.)

Instructions

1. 1Gather all eight vegetables — pollakaya, vendakaya (okra), averakaya (broad beans), pavakaya (bitter gourd), catereekaya (brinjal/eggplant), pooshenikaya (ash gourd), vellereckaya (cucumber), and sookkamkaya or bryania caloessa — making sure each is fully ripe. Rinse each vegetable thoroughly under cold running water and pat dry with a clean cloth. Lay them out on a clean work surface so you can work through each type in turn.
2. 2Using a sharp knife on a stable cutting board, cut each vegetable into round cross-section slices approximately 6 mm (a quarter of an inch) thick. Work through each vegetable type one at a time, keeping the slices uniform in thickness so they dry and fry evenly. Discard any damaged or overly soft pieces. Lay the slices out in a single layer as you go — you will have a large quantity.
3. 3Arrange the vegetable slices in a single layer on clean flat trays, large bamboo mats, or wire racks. Place them in full, direct sunlight — ideally outdoors on a clean, dry surface or on a rooftop. Leave them to dry in the sun for one or more days until they are completely dry and leathery, with no remaining moisture when pressed. This may take 1 to 3 days depending on the strength of the sun and local humidity. Bring them indoors at night or if rain threatens, and return them to the sun each morning. They should feel firm and almost brittle when fully dried. If sun-drying is not practical, use a food dehydrator set to 55–60°C (130–140°F) for 8–12 hours, or place them in an oven on its lowest setting (around 60°C/140°F) with the door slightly ajar for 6–10 hours, checking periodically.
4. 4Once all the vegetable slices are thoroughly dried, transfer them into a clean earthen pot (an unglazed clay pot) or, if unavailable, a clean airtight ceramic or glass container. Keep the different vegetable types together or separated as you prefer. Seal the pot and store in a cool, dry place. The dried vegetables can be stored for several weeks or months at this stage until you are ready to use them.
5. 5When you are ready to cook, remove the quantity of dried vegetable slices you wish to fry from storage. Place them in a bowl or pot large enough to hold them comfortably. Pour over enough acid whey to completely submerge the slices. Add salt to taste — the soaking liquid should taste noticeably salty, similar to a light brine. Stir gently to distribute the salt. Cover the bowl and leave the vegetables to soak at room temperature overnight, or for at least 8 hours. The slices will rehydrate slightly and absorb the tangy, salty flavour of the whey.
6. 6The following morning, drain the vegetable slices thoroughly through a colander or sieve, discarding the soaking whey. Spread the slices out again in a single layer on trays, racks, or clean cloth. Place them back in direct sunlight for the day, or use a food dehydrator or low oven as described in step 3, until they are completely dry once more and free of all surface moisture. This second drying is important — any remaining moisture will cause the oil to spit dangerously when frying. The slices should feel dry and firm to the touch before proceeding.
7. 7Heat a wide, heavy-based frying pan or wok over medium-high heat. Add a sufficient quantity of ghee (melted clarified butter) or gingillie oil (sesame oil) to coat the base of the pan to a depth of about 5 mm — enough to shallow-fry the slices. Allow the fat to heat until it shimmers but does not smoke. Carefully add the dried vegetable slices in a single layer, working in batches to avoid crowding the pan. Fry them, turning occasionally with tongs or a spatula, until they become crisp and lightly browned and a rich, savoury aroma rises from the pan. This will take approximately 3 to 5 minutes per batch depending on the vegetable type and thickness. Remove each batch and set aside briefly while you fry the remainder.
8. 8As soon as the rich, savoury fragrance rises from the pan and the slices are crisp and golden, remove them from the heat immediately. Serve the fried vegetable slices as hot as possible — they are at their best the moment they come out of the pan, while still sizzling and at peak crispness. Serve as a side dish or snack in the traditional South Indian manner.