BROWN PULSE POWDER AND RICE
A simple South Indian rice dish from 1836 in which boiled brown pulse is dried and ground into a fine powder, then mixed with boiled rice, chilly powder, and salt, and finished with black pulse and red chillies fried in ghee. The result is a fragrant, spiced rice that is both hearty and full of flavour.
Ingredients
- 1 seer (approximately 900 g / 2 lb) brown pulse (One seer is a traditional South Asian unit roughly equal to 900 g. Use any brown lentil or whole brown gram (kala chana) available to you. The original recipe calls for boiling, pounding, de-podding, and then grinding, so a sturdy whole pulse works best.)
- 0.0625 seer (approximately 56 g / 2 oz) prepared chilly powder (One-sixteenth of a seer. 'Prepared' chilly powder in historical South Indian cooking typically means dried red chillies that have been roasted and then ground. Use a medium-hot red chilly powder. Adjust quantity carefully — this is a significant amount for modern palates; start with less if you prefer milder heat.)
- 1 seer cooked (approximately 900 g / 2 lb cooked rice) fine boiled rice (Use plain white rice that has been cooked until just tender and cooled slightly. Short- or medium-grain rice holds together well in this dish.)
- 0 to taste refined salt (The original recipe states 'some refined salt'. Add gradually and taste as you mix.)
- 0 to taste (a small handful) black pulse (Black pulse likely refers to urad dal (black gram), either whole or split. Frying it in ghee creates a crispy, nutty garnish. The original states 'some', so use a modest handful.)
- 0 to taste (a few whole dried) red chillies (Whole dried red chillies, to be fried in ghee alongside the black pulse. The original states 'some'; 2–4 chillies is a reasonable starting point.)
- 0 as needed for frying ghee (Clarified butter used for frying the black pulse and red chillies. Use enough to coat the pan generously — roughly 1–2 tablespoons.)
Instructions
- 1Measure out one seer (approximately 900 g) of brown pulse. Rinse it thoroughly under cold running water, removing any grit or debris. Place it in a large, heavy-bottomed pot — the original recipe calls for an earthen pot, and a clay pot or Dutch oven works well. Cover the pulse generously with cold water (at least three times the volume of the pulse). Bring to a vigorous boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook until the pulse is completely soft and the skins (pods) are beginning to separate — this can take 40–60 minutes depending on the variety. Top up with hot water if the pot runs dry. You want the pulse to be thoroughly cooked through, not just softened. Drain the pulse through a colander and spread it out on a clean tray to cool and begin to dry.
- 2Once the cooked pulse is cool enough to handle, transfer it in batches to a large mortar. Using a pestle, pound the pulse firmly but steadily. The goal here is not to create a smooth paste — it is to break the pulse open so the inner grain separates cleanly from the outer pod (skin). Work in batches if your mortar is small. Pound until each grain is cracked or crushed. If you do not have a large mortar and pestle, you can use a rolling pin: spread the cooked pulse on a clean surface in a thin layer and press and roll firmly.
- 3After pounding, you will have a mixture of broken pulse grains and loose skins (pods). To clear the pods, work in batches: place a portion of the pounded pulse on a flat tray or wide bowl. Gently blow across the surface — the light, papery skins will blow away while the heavier grain stays. Alternatively, place the pounded pulse in a bowl of water; the skins will float to the top and can be skimmed off. Repeat until the pulse is as free of skins as possible. Drain well and spread on a dry tray if you used the water method, and allow to air-dry briefly.
- 4The original recipe instructs to 'grind it in a mill and reduce it into fine powder'. At home, the most practical method is to use a blender, spice grinder, or food processor. If the pulse is still slightly moist, spread it on a baking tray and dry it in an oven at 100°C (210°F) for 10–15 minutes until completely dry, then allow to cool completely before grinding — wet pulse will not grind to a powder. Once dry and cool, grind the de-skinned pulse in batches in a blender or spice grinder, pulsing repeatedly, until it becomes a fine, uniform powder. Sieve the powder through a fine-mesh sieve to catch any coarser pieces; re-grind those pieces and sieve again. Your finished brown pulse powder should be dry and free-flowing.
- 5In a large mixing bowl, combine the fine brown pulse powder you have just made, one-sixteenth of a seer (approximately 56 g) of prepared chilly powder, and one seer (approximately 900 g) of fine boiled rice. Add refined salt to taste — start with a small amount, mix well, taste, and add more if needed. Mix everything together thoroughly so the powder and chilly powder coat the rice evenly. The mixture should be well combined — every grain of rice should carry some of the pulse powder and chilly flavour.
- 6Place a small frying pan or tadka pan over medium-high heat. Add enough ghee to generously coat the bottom of the pan — approximately 1–2 tablespoons. When the ghee has melted and is hot (it will shimmer), add a small handful of black pulse (urad dal or black gram). Stir constantly — the black pulse will begin to turn golden and crispy within 1–2 minutes. As soon as it is golden, add a few whole dried red chillies to the pan. Stand back slightly as they will splutter. Fry for a further 30–60 seconds, stirring, until the chillies darken and become fragrant. Do not allow the black pulse or chillies to burn — work quickly over the heat.
- 7Immediately pour the hot ghee, fried black pulse, and fried red chillies over the rice and pulse powder mixture in the bowl. The sizzling ghee will carry the flavour of the fried ingredients throughout the rice. Fold everything together gently but thoroughly using a large spoon or spatula, taking care not to break up the rice grains too much. Taste and adjust salt if needed. Serve the brown pulse powder and rice warm, directly from the bowl. It can be eaten on its own or alongside a simple side dish.