Another Method

Another Method

A simple South Indian-style chutney from the 1836 Pakasastra, featuring fried pavakaya (bitter gourd) pieces simmered with tamarind juice and finished with a fragrant tempering of cumin, mustard, and curry leaves in ghee.

Ingredients

  • 2 whole pavakaya (bitter gourd) (Also known as bitter gourd or karela. Cut into halves or quarters.)
  • 2 tablespoons ghee or melted butter (For frying the pavakaya pieces.)
  • 3 tablespoons juice of ripe tamarind (Squeeze ripe tamarind soaked in a little warm water to extract the juice, or use ready-made tamarind paste diluted with water.)
  • 1 to taste salt (Add according to your preference.)
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds (Also spelled cummin; whole seeds for tempering.)
  • 1 teaspoon mustard seeds (Whole mustard seeds for tempering.)
  • 10 leaves carapala leaves (curry leaves) (Carapala is the historical Telugu name for curry leaves (Murraya koenigii). Use fresh or dried.)
  • 1 tablespoon ghee (For frying the tempering spices separately.)

Instructions

  1. 1Rinse the 2 pavakaya (bitter gourds) under cold water. Trim off the ends, then cut each one lengthwise in half, giving you 4 pieces total — or cut each into quarters for 8 smaller pieces. If you prefer a less bitter flavour, scrape out the seeds and white pith from the centre using a spoon before frying.
  2. 2Place a wide frying pan or skillet over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of ghee or melted butter and let it heat until shimmering. Add the pavakaya pieces in a single layer. Fry them, turning occasionally, until they are golden-brown on the outside and tender when pierced with a fork — about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from heat briefly before the next step.
  3. 3Return the pan with the fried pavakaya to low heat. Pour in 3 tablespoons of ripe tamarind juice (if using a block of tamarind, soak a small piece in 4 tablespoons of warm water for 5 minutes, then squeeze and strain out the pulp to get the juice). Stir to coat the pavakaya pieces. Add salt to taste and stir gently. Let the mixture cook together on low heat for 2 to 3 minutes so the flavours combine.
  4. 4In a separate small frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon of ghee over medium heat. Once the ghee is hot and shimmering, add 1 teaspoon of cumin seeds and 1 teaspoon of mustard seeds. Let them sizzle for about 30 seconds — the mustard seeds will begin to pop and the cumin will darken slightly. Immediately add the 10 carapala (curry) leaves. Be careful as the leaves may splutter. Fry everything together for a further 30 seconds until the leaves are crisp and fragrant.
  5. 5Pour the hot ghee tempering — with the cumin seeds, mustard seeds, and carapala leaves — directly over the pavakaya and tamarind mixture in the pan. Stir gently to combine everything. Taste and adjust salt if needed. Serve the chutney warm or at room temperature as a side condiment alongside rice or flatbread.

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