Fish Polao
A fragrant Bengali-style rice dish in which large fish pieces are simmered with whole spices to create a flavourful stock, and then that stock is used to cook ghee-toasted rice until perfectly tender. The fish is nestled into the finished rice and the whole dish is kept warm before serving.
Ingredients
- 1 fish weighing 6–7 lbs (approx. 2.7–3.2 kg) fresh fish (middle portion preferred) (Use only the middle portion if possible; the head is also used but must always be boiled. A firm-fleshed fish such as rohu or a similarly large freshwater fish works well.)
- 0 to taste fresh ginger (Quantity not specified in the original recipe. A thumb-sized piece is a reasonable starting point. It will be made into a paste.)
- 0 to taste coriander seeds (Quantity not specified in the original recipe. Used whole, tied in cloth with ginger paste and peppers.)
- 0 to taste whole peppercorns (Quantity not specified in the original recipe. Used whole in the spice bundle; the boiled peppers may later be ground into a paste and added to the akhni water.)
- 0 to taste salt (Added to the boiling water along with the fish.)
- 4 lbs (approx. 1.8 litres) water (Used to poach the fish and create the akhni (spiced fish stock). The stock is reduced until approximately 2 lbs (900 ml) remain.)
- 0.25 lb (approx. 115 g), plus additional ghee for finishing ghee (About 1/4 lb is used for frying the rice; an unspecified additional amount of ghee is heated and added at the end. Ghee or oil may also optionally be used to brown the fish pieces.)
- 0 to taste cassia leaves (Quantity not specified in the original recipe. Used whole. Cassia leaves (also known as tejpatta or Indian bay leaves) are added to the hot ghee to infuse flavour.)
- 0 to taste garam masala (whole spices) (Quantity not specified. Used 'all entire', meaning the individual whole spices are added as-is rather than ground. This typically refers to whole spices such as cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon.)
- 0 a few dried red peppers (Broken in two before adding to the hot ghee.)
- 0 to taste rice (Quantity not specified in the original recipe. Must be washed and thoroughly dried before frying in ghee. A long-grain variety such as basmati is suitable.)
- 0 as needed (optional) oil (Optional alternative to ghee for browning the fish pieces after poaching.)
- 0 to taste fried onions (Served alongside the polao as a garnish or accompaniment.)
Instructions
- 1Remove all the scales from the fish by scraping firmly from tail to head with the back of a knife or a fish scaler. Gut the fish by making a cut along the belly and removing all the intestines. Rinse the fish well under cold running water. Cut the fish into large pieces. If you have a whole fish, the middle portion (the thick body section) gives the best results. Keep the head separate as it will need longer cooking time.
- 2Place all the fish pieces, including the head, into a large bowl or colander. Wash them thoroughly under cold clean running water, turning each piece to make sure all surfaces are rinsed clean. Set aside to drain.
- 3Peel the ginger and rinse it along with the coriander seeds and peppercorns under cold water. Using a pestle and mortar or a food processor, grind the ginger into a smooth paste. Lay out a small clean square of muslin cloth (or a clean, thin cotton cloth). Place the ginger paste, whole coriander seeds, and whole peppercorns in the centre of the cloth. Gather the corners of the cloth together and tie tightly with kitchen string to form a bundle — this is your spice bundle or 'potli'. The cloth allows the flavour to infuse into the water without leaving loose spices in the stock.
- 4Pour approximately 4 lbs (1.8 litres) of water into a large, deep pot and bring it to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and the spice bundle to the boiling water. Add all the fish pieces including the head. Press the lid on and reduce the heat to a medium simmer. After about 15 minutes, carefully remove all the fish pieces except the head using a slotted spoon or fish slice — the body pieces cook faster than the head. Set the removed fish pieces aside on a plate. Continue simmering with the head in the pot until the head is properly cooked through (it will flake when pressed). Then remove the head and set it aside. Continue simmering the stock, uncovered, until the liquid has reduced to approximately 2 lbs (about 900 ml). Remove and discard (or set aside) the spice bundle. This flavourful liquid is called 'akhni water'. Tip: If you wish, you may optionally retrieve the boiled peppercorns from the spice bundle at this point, grind them into a paste, and stir this paste into the akhni water for added flavour.
- 5This step is optional but adds flavour and a pleasant texture to the fish pieces. If you choose to do it, heat a shallow frying pan over medium-high heat and add a little ghee or oil. Once the fat is hot and shimmering, add the poached fish body pieces (not the head — the head is never fried, only boiled) and fry for a few minutes on each side until lightly golden and browned. Remove from the pan and set aside. If you prefer not to brown the fish, simply leave the boiled pieces on the plate and proceed to the next step.
- 6Make sure your rice has been washed thoroughly under cold water until the water runs clear, then spread it out on a clean cloth or tray and leave it to dry completely — wet rice will sputter dangerously when it hits the hot ghee. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot (big enough to hold all the rice and stock), melt approximately 1/4 lb (115 g) of ghee over medium heat. Once the ghee is hot, add the cassia leaves, the whole garam masala spices, and the dried red peppers broken in two. The spices will sizzle and become fragrant within 30–60 seconds — you will smell a warm, toasty aroma. This is the signal to add the dried rice. Pour in the rice and stir constantly with a wooden spoon, making sure every grain is coated in the spiced ghee. Continue stirring and toasting for 6 to 7 minutes. The rice grains will turn from translucent to slightly opaque and develop a faint nutty, toasted smell. Do not let them brown.
- 7Once the rice is properly toasted, carefully pour all of the akhni water (the spiced fish stock from Step 4) into the pot over the toasted rice. If you made a paste from the boiled peppercorns, stir that in now as well. Stir everything together gently, then place the lid firmly on the pot. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting — a very gentle simmer. Allow the rice to absorb the stock and cook undisturbed. After about 15–20 minutes, check the rice by lifting the lid briefly. The rice should be fully cooked through — tender all the way, with no hard centre — and all the liquid should be absorbed. If needed, add a tiny splash of water and continue cooking briefly. Once done, remove from the heat.
- 8With the rice fully cooked and the pot still on the stove (heat off), use a large spoon to make a hole or hollow in the centre of the rice, pushing the rice aside to create a space. Place a few pieces of fish into this hollow, then gently cover them back over with the displaced rice. Repeat this process — making a hole, adding fish pieces, covering with rice — until all the fish pieces (both the body pieces and the head) are buried and completely hidden within the rice. This technique allows the fish to gently warm through while being enveloped in the aromatic rice, and keeps the pieces intact rather than stirred in.
- 9In a small saucepan or ladle, heat the remaining ghee over medium heat until it melts and becomes very hot and fragrant — it will shimmer and smell nutty. Carefully drizzle this hot ghee all over the surface of the rice in the pot. This final addition of ghee adds a rich, glossy finish and enhances the aroma of the whole dish.
- 10Place the lid back firmly on the pot. To keep the polao hot for the full hour, you can wrap the entire pot in a thick towel or blanket, or place it in a very low oven (around 80–90°C / 175–195°F). Allow the polao to rest and stay warm for approximately one hour before serving. This resting time is important — it allows the flavours to deepen and meld together beautifully. When ready to serve, bring the pot to the table. Serve with fried onions on the side as a garnish and accompaniment.