CLIMBING FISH with CABBAGE

CLIMBING FISH with CABBAGE

A fragrant Bengali-style fish curry made with whole climbing perch (koi fish) simmered together with cabbage, potato, and green peas in a spiced ghee and oil base. This hearty, rustic dish layers fried fish and vegetables with a bold paste of ginger, turmeric, cumin, pepper, and coriander, finished with a tempering of panch-foron, cassia leaves, and chillies.

Ingredients

  • 900 g (approximately 1 medium head) Cabbage (tender white portion only) (Use only the tender inner white leaves. The original calls for 1 medium cabbage or approximately 2 to 2½ seers (roughly 1.9–2.4 kg chopped); scaled here to 4 servings at approximately 900 g chopped.)
  • 225 g Potato (Cut into medium pieces. Original quantity is ½ seer (approx. 470 g); scaled to 4 servings.)
  • 450 g (pods) Green peas in their pods (Shell the peas before cooking. Original calls for 1 seer of green legumes of peas (approx. 930 g pods); scaled to 4 servings. You will use only the shelled peas.)
  • 450 g Climbing fish (koi / climbing perch), whole (Cleaned and kept whole. Original calls for 1 seer (approx. 930 g); scaled to 4 servings. Substitute with whole small freshwater fish such as tilapia or snakehead if unavailable.)
  • 60 g (approx. 4 tablespoons) Ghee (Used both for frying and for the final tempering. Original calls for ½ powa (approx. 117 g); scaled to 4 servings.)
  • 30 ml (approx. 2 tablespoons) Neutral cooking oil (Used for frying the fish. Original calls for ¼ powa (approx. 58 ml); scaled to 4 servings. Mustard oil is traditional.)
  • 12 g (approx. 2 teaspoons) Salt (Original calls for 4 tolas (approx. 46 g); scaled to 4 servings. Adjust to taste.)
  • 15 g (approx. 1 tablespoon grated) Fresh ginger (To be ground into a paste with the other spices. Original calls for 1 chhatak (approx. 58 g); scaled to 4 servings.)
  • 3 g (approx. ½ teaspoon) Turmeric powder (To be included in the spice paste. Original calls for 2½ tolas (approx. 29 g); scaled to 4 servings.)
  • 0.5 g (approx. ¼ teaspoon) Coriander powder (To be included in the spice paste. Original calls for ½ tola (approx. 5.8 g); scaled to 4 servings.)
  • 1 g (approx. ½ teaspoon ground) Black pepper (To be included in the spice paste. Original calls for 1 tola (approx. 11.7 g); scaled to 4 servings.)
  • 3.5 g (approx. 1 teaspoon ground) Cumin (To be included in the spice paste. Original calls for 3 tolas (approx. 35 g); scaled to 4 servings.)
  • 1 g (approx. ¼ teaspoon) Garam masala (Added as a paste at the very end. Original calls for 1 tola (approx. 11.7 g); scaled to 4 servings.)
  • 3 whole Whole dried red chillies (Used in the final tempering. Quantity not specified in original; use to taste.)
  • 4 leaves Cassia leaves (Indian bay leaves / tej patta) (Used both when frying vegetables and in the final tempering. Quantity not specified in original; use to taste. Do not substitute with Mediterranean bay leaves.)
  • 1 pinch Panch-foron (Bengali five-spice blend) (Used in the final tempering. Panch-foron is a pre-mixed blend of fenugreek, nigella, cumin, black mustard, and fennel seeds; available at Indian grocery stores.)

Instructions

  1. 1Combine the ginger, turmeric powder, coriander powder, black pepper, and cumin in a small bowl. Add just enough water (1–2 teaspoons) to bring everything together into a smooth, thick paste. You can use a mortar and pestle or a small blender. Set the spice paste aside. Keep the garam masala separate — it will be used at the very end.
  2. 2Remove the green peas from their pods and set the peas aside. Discard the pods. Peel the potatoes and cut them into medium-sized chunks (roughly 3–4 cm pieces). Set aside.
  3. 3Clean the climbing fish thoroughly — rinse under cold water, remove any scales, and pat dry with kitchen paper. The fish are kept whole (do not cut them up). Heat the oil in a wide frying pan or wok over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot and shimmering, carefully add the whole fish in a single layer. Fry for 3–4 minutes per side until they are golden and cooked through. Remove the fish from the pan and set aside on a plate. Do not discard the remaining oil in the pan.
  4. 4In the same pan (add a little ghee or oil if the pan looks dry), heat over medium heat. Add 2 cassia leaves and let them sizzle for 10 seconds. Add the potato pieces and shelled green peas. Fry, stirring occasionally, for about 5–7 minutes until the potatoes begin to turn slightly golden at the edges and the peas are lightly cooked. Remove the vegetables from the pan and set aside with the fried fish.
  5. 5Remove any tough outer leaves from the cabbage and discard. Chop only the tender white inner portion of the cabbage into rough pieces. In the same pan, add a little more ghee or oil if needed and heat over medium-high heat. Add the chopped cabbage and fry, stirring frequently, until it turns a light golden brown colour — this should take about 8–10 minutes. The cabbage will wilt significantly and reduce in volume.
  6. 6Reduce the heat to medium. Return the fried potatoes, peas, and fish to the pan with the cabbage. Add the spice paste you made in step 1 and sprinkle over the salt. Stir gently to coat everything in the spices, being careful not to break up the whole fish. The salt will draw moisture out of the vegetables — you should see liquid beginning to pool in the pan. If the curry looks too dry after 2–3 minutes, add a small splash of water (just enough to help everything simmer without burning). Cover the pan with a lid and cook over medium-low heat for 10–12 minutes, until the potatoes are fully cooked through (test by piercing with a knife — it should slide in easily) and the fish is tender.
  7. 7In a small saucepan or ladle, heat the remaining ghee over medium heat until it melts and becomes hot. Add a pinch of panch-foron and let it sizzle for about 15 seconds until fragrant. Add the remaining cassia leaves (1–2 leaves) and the whole dried red chillies and fry for another 15–20 seconds — the chillies will darken slightly. Pour this entire tempering (ghee and all the spices) over the curry in the pan. Stir gently to combine. The curry is now seasoned.
  8. 8Just before removing the pan from the heat, mix the garam masala with a few drops of water to make a thin paste and stir it gently into the curry. This is done at the very end to preserve its aroma. Give everything one final gentle stir, then remove from the heat immediately. Serve hot with steamed rice or flatbread.

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