TORI-KAN (Chicken Jelly)
A traditional Japanese-inspired savoury chicken jelly made with tender chicken pieces, rehydrated dried mushrooms, and seaweed gelatine set together in a mould. Sliced and served cold, this elegant dish makes a stunning centrepiece from the 1914 Chinese-Japanese Cook Book.
Ingredients
- 2 pounds Chicken flesh (young, tender chicken) (Use a whole young chicken or equivalent boneless-weight; bones will be removed after cooking.)
- 0.5 pound Seaweed jelly or gelatine (Seaweed jelly (kanten/agar-agar) is traditional; powdered gelatine can be substituted. If using agar-agar bars, break into pieces before soaking.)
- 1 tablespoon Sugar (Plain white granulated sugar.)
- 1 pinch (plus extra to taste) Salt (Use fine table salt or sea salt.)
- 1 pinch (to taste) Pepper (Black or white pepper, ground.)
- 0.25 pound Dried mushrooms (Dried shiitake mushrooms are the most authentic choice. Stalks will be removed before cooking.)
- 1 cup Mirin sauce (Mirin is a sweet Japanese rice wine available in Asian grocery stores or large supermarkets.)
Instructions
- 1Place the chicken flesh in a large pot and cover generously with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a steady simmer and cook the chicken until it is completely tender and cooked through — the meat should pull away easily from any bones. This typically takes 45–60 minutes for a whole young chicken, or 25–35 minutes for cut pieces. Keep an eye on the water level, topping up with hot water if needed to keep the chicken submerged.
- 2Once the chicken is tender, carefully lift it out of the cooking liquid using tongs or a slotted spoon. Set it aside to cool slightly until it is safe to handle — about 10 minutes. Once cool enough to touch, use your fingers or a knife and fork to remove all bones and any skin. Discard the bones. Cut or shred the chicken flesh into small, bite-sized pieces and set aside.
- 3While the chicken is cooking, prepare the dried mushrooms. First, pick off and discard all the stalks from the dried mushrooms — the stalks are tough and not used in this recipe. Place the mushroom caps in a bowl and cover with lukewarm (not hot) water. Let them soak for 20 minutes until softened and pliable. Lukewarm water helps them rehydrate evenly without becoming mushy.
- 4After the mushrooms have soaked for 20 minutes, drain them and discard the soaking water. Place the rehydrated mushroom caps on a chopping board and cut them into small pieces. Transfer the cut mushrooms to a saucepan and add about 2 cupfuls (approximately 500 ml) of fresh water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer and cook for 25 minutes.
- 5Once the mushrooms have boiled for 25 minutes, pour in the full 1 cup of mirin sauce. Stir to combine, then bring back to a boil and cook for a further 5 minutes. The mirin will add a sweet, slightly glossy finish to the mushrooms. Remove from the heat and set the mushroom and mirin mixture aside — you will add this to the jelly mixture later.
- 6This step needs to be started well in advance — ideally 2 hours before you want to assemble the dish, so plan accordingly. Rinse the seaweed jelly (kanten/agar-agar) under cold running water to clean off any dust or debris. Place it in a large bowl and cover with fresh cold water. Leave it to soak for about 2 hours, until it has softened and swelled. After soaking, lift the seaweed jelly out of the water and squeeze it firmly with your hands to remove as much excess water as possible. Set aside.
- 7Break the squeezed seaweed jelly into small pieces with your hands and place them into a clean saucepan. Add 1 quart (approximately 1 litre) of fresh water. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Continue to cook, stirring regularly, until the seaweed jelly has completely dissolved into the water — the liquid should look mostly clear or very lightly cloudy with no solid lumps remaining. This may take 10–15 minutes of simmering.
- 8Once the seaweed jelly has fully dissolved, pour the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer or piece of muslin cloth into a second clean saucepan to remove any undissolved pieces or impurities. Add a pinch of salt and the 1 tablespoon of sugar to the strained liquid. Stir well over low heat until the salt and sugar are fully dissolved. Taste and adjust salt if needed.
- 9With the strained jelly base in the saucepan over very low heat (just enough to keep it liquid and pourable), add the mushrooms along with all the mirin sauce from the mushroom pan. Stir to combine. Then add the cooked, deboned chicken pieces. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir everything together gently so the chicken and mushrooms are evenly distributed throughout the liquid jelly base.
- 10Have your mould ready before pouring. A smooth loaf tin, rectangular baking dish, or any smooth-sided mould works well — the original recipe calls for a lacquered or smooth wooden box. If you want to make unmoulding easier, lightly dampen the inside of your mould with a little water. Carefully pour the warm jelly mixture into the mould, ensuring the chicken and mushrooms are spread evenly across the bottom (they will become the top when you unmould it). Do this while the mixture is still warm and liquid.
- 11Allow the filled mould to cool to room temperature, then transfer it to the refrigerator. Leave it to set fully — this will take at least 2–3 hours or overnight. Once firmly set, run a thin knife or spatula around the edges of the mould to loosen the jelly. Turn it out onto a serving plate. If it does not release easily, briefly place the base of the mould in warm water for 10 seconds to help loosen it. Use a sharp knife to cut the jelly into neat slices and arrange on the plate to serve.